Teach your dog to speak

No matter what age, breed, or size your dog is, you can teach him how to speak. This is a fun dog trick, and it's easy to learn. Grab a tempting treat or toy, show your dog the treat, and ask him to “Speak.” At first, it will take a while for your dog to understand.

He may even jump for the treat, watch you eagerly, and then bark out of impatience. As soon as he does, give him the treat or toy, and lavish him with praise. You may rush this process by saying “Speak” and barking at your dog. He'll bark back out of excitement and to imitate you. Repeat this process of tempting with a treat, saying “Speak” to your dog, and then rewarding your dog for speaking.

Of course, once your dog has mastered speaking, the next step is to teach him how to sing. Your dog may not be a musical superstar overnight, but you should be able to teach him to howl the blues. You go first. Whine and howl at your dog, and he will mock you. Dogs will often copy your same pitch, style, and tone as well. I've been lucky enough to witness a chihuahua singing the entire lyrics to shenia twain's "Feel like a woman." That's something I'll probably never forget.

The wonders of taking your dog camping

You want to go camping, but don't want to leave Fido behind? That's understandable, especially on a family vacation. It seems a shame to leave your dog in a cage at a kennel. Camping is fun for the entire family, and that includes your dog. Before you do, there are some things to consider.

One of the biggest dangers a dog faces on a camping trip, is the possibility of getting lost. At home, your dog probably has a sense of the neighborhood. He's much more likely to find his way home after wandering off. If you're out camping 100 miles, 300 miles, 600 miles away, the possibility of him returning isn't as likely. If you aren't 100% sure your dog will come EVERY time he's called, a leash may be necessary at all times. To be safe, you'll want your dog wearing an ID tag, and you might consider a microchip or tattoo.

Speak to the campgrounds ahead of time. Even if they say they are "pet friendly" they may only allow one pet, or dogs under a certain weight. You should find out about wildlife in the area that might pose a danger, and poisonous plants indigenous to the area. In case of any interaction your dog may have with wildlife, make sure he's up to date on all vaccinations. Bring vaccination records, just in case.

Along with vaccination records, bring a first aid kit for your dog. Further, dog toys, extra leash and collar, pet carrier, and dog treats may come in handy. You'll need to include your dog in all activities while camping, including long walks, playing ball, and cook outs. It may be harder work to bring your dog camping with you, but it can be a lot of fun as well.

What to name your black dog?

I have to confess, I have a cat named "Blackie" -- How unimaginative is that? At least if we're to name our pet after his color, perhaps we should use a little pizazz. Since there are so many black dogs walking around named Blackie, Shadow, Smokey, you might consider a more creative variation to name your black dog. It's important to remember that your dog will be around 10, 15, 20 years, so you want to spend the time to find the perfect name.

If you have a small black dog, you can hint at color and size, all with one meaningful word. How about Scrap, Smudge, Smidgeon, Speck, Splotch, or Wisp? As crazy as this may sound, there are a few superstitious people afraid of black dogs. Ridiculous as that sounds, this is one, among a few reasons why black dogs are harder to adopt out than any other color. If your dog has found his loving, lifetime home with you, you can laugh at those people with names such as Cujo, Darth, Jezebel, Katrina, Lilith, Mordor, Reaper, Smut, Snitch, Sorrow, Vader, Vice, and Wicked.

What about the coffee fanatics out there? You can name your black dog Chicory, Latte, or Mocha. Beer drinkers can consider Guinness, Porter, Stout, Xingu. Need additional suggestions to name your black dog? You might want to consider Molasses, Grunge, Pitch, Soot, Spade, Dusky, Midnight, Shade, Twilight, Patch, Sable, Suede, Tux, or Velvet. Take your time, and pick out the perfect name for your black dog.

5 Things You Should Teach Your Dog

There are 5 things you should teach your dog. Whether you have a Great Dane or a Pomeranian, basic dog training is a must. This post is not about "dog tricks" per se, but about keeping your dog safe, and preventing future problems from cropping up later.

1. Every dog should understand the sit request. This is the basis of dog training and tricks.

2. Playing nice with other dogs. This is all about socializing, so your dog won't be overly aggressive or fearful towards other dogs in the future.

3. Getting your dog comfortable with a wide variety of people. This is not to say, your dog needs to love everyone they meet. Your dog should be socialized enough though, to understand that not every stranger is a threat.

4. Teach your dog to walk on a leash. In a way, I can't stand the leash. However, it's often necessary for the safety of your dog. You should be able to train your dog to go for a comfortable stroll without dragging you.

5. Teach your dog to stay. This may help some day to keep your dog safe.

The most important advise is to always keep your training sessions short, positive, and fun. If your dog can master these 5 things, it may make time together more enjoyable for both you, and your dog.

Fun dog tricks to teach your dog

If you spend ten minutes every day, you can teach your dog tricks. It's fun to train your dog, and only requires a quiet atmosphere, dog treats, and a lot of praise. Here are a few tricks that you can teach your dog.

You can teach your dog how to give you his paw, which is basically the shaking hands trick. While your dog is in a sitting position, gently lift your dogs paw in your hand as you say "Paw." Praise your dog, and give him a treat. Keep practicing this, each time saying "Paw." As you're dog starts to understand that you want to hold his paw, don't take his paw as quickly. He'll start to give it to you on his own. Many dogs are able to learn this trick in about a week.

Once you've trained your dog to give you his paw, you can show him how to give you The high five. First, extend your hand to your dog, as if you're wanting to do the paw trick. Only, have your hand up a little bit higher. Your dog will think you want to do the paw trick again. As he reaches his paw towards your hand say "High five" touching paw to hand, and give him a treat. The most important thing to remember is that these short training sessions should be fun, and always praise your dog lavishly. Your dog should be able to give you his paw and high fives after about the end of the second week.

Next, you can train your dog to jump through a hoop. You might think it's difficult, but it's just a matter of following these steps. Start slow on this trick, keep the hoop low, and remember, safety first. First, teach your dog to jump through the hoop by tempting him with a treat. Start it off with the bottom of the hoop on the ground, and the treat on the other side. Every time he walks though it say "Hoopla" and give your dog a treat. Raise the hoop a bit higher gradually as you practice, each time saying "Hoopla!" Eventually, your dog will learn to jump through the hoop each time.

Jesus is watching you

A burglar breaks into a house. He is walking around in the dark putting stuff into a sack when he hears "Jesus is watching you." He stops in his tracks listens for the sound of another person, doesn't hear anything and continues rifling through the house. Again he hears "Jesus is watching you." Again he stops and listens, doesn't hear anything else and continues stealing. As he is loading up his satchel he again hears "Jesus is watching you." Needing to overcome his curiosity he feels for a light-switch and flips on the light. There sits a parrot who looks him in the eye and says "I told you Jesus is watching you." Oh really says the burglar, how do you know? Because I know replies the parrot. "What is your name" asks the burglar? "Noah" the parrot replies. "Noah" scoffs the burglar- "What kind of people would name a parrot Noah" asks the burglar? "The same kind of people that would name a pit bull Jesus the parrot replied.

What is a Pomeranian dog?

 

Photo Credit: Wiki (I look just like this dog!)

Searching for a new dog buddy and have one of the toy breeds in mind? Then be certain to give more than a peek to the stylish Pomeranian -- that prancing small ringmaster who, just like a certain boy or girl from high school, knows precisely how good looking he is. If you've got the time to sweep and brush his wonderful coat, the Pomeranian comprehensively merits your consideration. A ton of dog in a little package, he reasonably bursts with character. When you walk him down the road, all eyes turn -- and not as he's obstructing the light! -- but due to his bright eyes, "look at me" walk and beautiful coat.

Most dog lovers have no idea the little Pom is related to the aloof, good-looking Chow , the wonderful white Samoyed and others belonging to the group loosely known as "Northern dogs." Europe and particularly Germany boasts one or two near relatives of the Pomeranian, including the white and black Spitzes.
So, then, why are Poms so small? The reality is, when they first appeared in America they were heftier, weighing in at roughly 15-20 pounds normally.


In truth, round the turn of the twentieth century, award-winning American Poms may be found at twenty-five to thirty pounds. But their midget destiny had already been determined. In the latter 1800s, Queen Victoria came to be known as a Pomeranian fan, and like many stars, had a preference for littlest specimens. Sure enough, the breeders followed her lead, leading to the little, mighty companions we have today.

Not surprisingly , Poms are a special fave of ladies, but they merit real consideration in several houses thanks to their special mixture of size, intelligence and beauty. Urban families without a fenced yard can significantly enjoy a Pom. It may barely tip the scales, but the Pom is a characteristic pocket pup with a warning expression, wonderfully acute hearing, and nearly limitless intelligence and eagerness to learn.

What's more, Poms have more spine than you may think ( you could have to guard them from their own bravado if a big, assertive dog approaches ). If you are virtually set on a Pom, do not forget that being a Pom owner means devoting time and care to its coat. They are so fascinating and proud that their thick, showy coats merit special attention, and that suggests more than a lick-and-a-promise brushing.

What is a Basenji?

Photo Credit: Wiki

The Basenji is a little to medium sized dog weighing between twenty-two to twenty-five pounds. Their height is around 15" to 17". Called the barkless dog, the Basenji ( bah-SEN-gee ) makes a low howl / complaining / yodeling sound rather than barking. They also are called the Congo Dog.

The smooth, glossy, dense coat is short and lies flat against the body.

AKC sufficient colours for Basenjis are black, chestnut red, tricolor or brindle all with white on chest, feet and end of tail in any color including pinto, white or brindle. The coat is straightforward to worry for. Basenjis are also renowned for licking and grooming their hair like a moggy. This high energy dog makes a good watchdog. They're slow to heat up to strangers and will alert you if they see a stranger.

They need plenty of exercise and play. Since they seem to be a tiny on the independent side, they also enjoy some alone play. Gnawing is one of their fave pastimes, so load them up with toys so they do not pick your fave pair of shoes as a gnaw toy. They have an inclination to no do well with non-canine pets. With early socialization, they can do well with kids and other dogs. Because they possess a tiny bit of an independent nature, early coaching is advised to help curb any unwished-for behaviors.

Originating in Africa, the Basenji goes back to traditional times in Egypt. Footage of the Basenji are on the walls in traditional Egyptian tombs. They're typically used as watchdogs in Africa to alert others of the presence of wild game and they frequently hunt wild game as pack dogs. Simply because the Basenji does not bark, doesn't mean that they seem to be a meek, quiet lap dog. They're very dynamic and need lots of play and exercise. They're good for houses that enjoy outside activity and will ensure that their Basenji has time to run and ramble.

Designer dogs as a status symbol

For some, it's standard to select dogs like they pick out their shoes, as if they represent a glamorous aura or status symbol. "Ooh - I could have that darling one in the corner, great color - matches my purse too!" And they are not too hard to find - anybody with enough cash can pick out the designer doglet of their dreams.

This is a recent true story of an acquaintance, that in all honesty, I feel a bit disgusted by - at least in her attitude towards dogs. She had two dogs, a large one and a Chihuahua, and had to move to a place that doesn't allow large dogs. For me, I would just keep looking to find a place that takes large dogs, but no. Then I find a bunch of rescues she can contact, then she says, she just took him to the pound because she doesn't have enough time to deal with it. Next thing I know she says she went back to the pound to find a Chihuahua. She said she didn't adopt any there because they wouldn't fit well into the doggy clothes she wanted to dress them in. I'm thinking WTF, how can anyone go to the pound and refuse to adopt a dog for that reason???

Scary as well is the free availability of 'designer dogs' -- it's an indisputable fact that just about any one can make a new type of dog. The unexpected increase in dogs as style statements means that there are several underhand breeders attempting to make a fast buck from costly dogs with lovable names. Unfortunately there are such a lot of hazards with these categories of breeding practices. Anyone can mix any mixture of dogs but few can master doing it in a way that's good for the dogs, and the humans who live with them. It's about way more than genetics. Why make a dog that is likely to have an unhealthy future? If they are going to breed, why not breed for health rather than just being cute and fitting into funky doggy outfits?

Imagine this delightful Puggle that you have just brought home might need to have his eyes popped into their sockets at regular intervals! Beginner breeders are unharnessing all sorts of perilous conditions on dogs who are being bred to slot in with our fashion lifestyles. It can be contended that all dogs came to be as a consequence of interbreeding. Not only are all purebreds a consequence of mixing but actually every single dog today has some history of crossbreeding in their past. There's a well merited stigma surrounding these new so called 'designer mutts'.

Diverse Pug and Pekingese breeds have awfully delicate eyes. Pugs are known to have problem eyes as are Pekingese. You might finish up with a dog whose eyes come out of their sockets. And fixing it may need costly and agonizing corrective surgery. Sounds like something from a horror movie instead of a content family dog! What about the mixing of some bigger dogs? It can be just as damaging if two genetically inferior examples are used. You might finish up crossing dogs that are troubled by hip dysplasia and land up with a crippled dog.

It's the absence of predictability level that makes these dogs such a risk. You never can tell what you are getting. And while the percentages could be in your favor - no-one can guarantee the healthiness of your designer pup. The North American Dog house Club is considering permitting some of the better established breeds into the list of accepted and recognized breeds. But this process requires some organization on the part of breeders. To be officially recognized there has to be proof the dogs have at least a three generation pedigree.

The dog must also be widely spread across the US - across at least twenty states. Labradoodles are the most widely known of the designer dog clubs. Labradoodles are also at the vanguard of approval into the North American Dog house Club. There are some breeders who have at least fifteen generations of Labradoodles and say they can forecast with great certainty the look and temperament of the dog. There's much debate in the dog world about whether many of those new hybrids will be. Only time will tell whether these dogs will be accepted into the mainstream.

Dogs are being bred to fit in a purse and designed to live in tiny spaces. Why not rather think about purchasing an adult dog from a shelter. At least this way, especially if you adopt an adult, you may have rather more certainty about the dog's personality and looks. At the end of the day your designer mutt might finish up costing you more. If your dog has some suspect heritage you may need many tests to screen for a variety of possible infirmities.

Whatever you choose, a dog is not your fashion accessory. Providing a loving home to your companion, and recognition that your dog has rights and deserves your respect, love, and protection is more significant above everything else.

Whipworm in dogs

If you want to keep your dog healthy both inside and outside, it is important to understand which internal worms see your dog as the ideal host. One of the least known parasites that pose a menace to dogs is the whipworm.

Whipworms, like most parasites, are versatile.

In egg form, their hard shells permit them to survive outside in the soil for years in the time. In numerous ways whipworms are like hookworms, but instead of ending in a hook shape, one end of this worm tapers to a narrow, whip-like point. Unlike hookworms, whipworms can't get into the body through the skin. The sole way for your dog to contract them is by eating the eggs.

Whipworms exist thru North America, and transmission is straightforward if your dog has any contact with other dogs. The long-lived eggs can show up in the soil, dog toys, dropped bones and water dishes. Once eaten, whipworms then grow to maturity within your dog's guts. When they reach maturity, the adult worms fasten themselves to the giant intestine and the cecum, a transitory pouch between the large and small intestines. Here, these unpleasant small bugs chop and puncture the abdominal walls to feed.

The female starts to lay her eggs, that the dog excretes thru the feces. Symptoms for whipworm look like those for other worms, like hookworm. Many dogs can carry a particular number of whipworms without showing trouble, but past a certain point, your dog may start to exhibit signs like a lifeless coat, anemia, fast weight loss, and a loose and bloody stool.

He could also begin puking up a yellow-green substance. In extremely serious cases, the worms may start to puncture the abdominal wall, to the degree the intestine starts to adhere to the body wall. In this situation, you could see your dog licking and troubling his right flank.

When you take your dog to the vet, it might take some time to diagnose him with whipworm. Whipworms lay eggs only randomly, and even if they are actively releasing eggs, any gut rot in your dog can make the eggs tough to find. Usually, vets will perform 4 stool samples over a few days before governing out whipworm. If your vet uncovers whipworm eggs, she'll administer a potent dewormer. But all whipworm dewormers on the market are only effective against worms in their adult form. As a consequence, you may likely need to re-treat your dog.

There are no straightforward and effective techniques of removing whipworm eggs from the soil around your home. a polluted environment can infect your dog repeatedly again. The easiest way to combat reinfestation is to be certain your dog's quarters are bright and dry, since whipworm eggs need moisture. When outside, try to keep your dog in an area of fresh new gravel, pavement or soil.

Coping with separation anxiety

The panic your dog may feel upon separation from you, is known as separation anxiety. It's one of the most commonly encountered issues in the world of dog obedience training. It can manifest itself in several different ways including gnawing, destroying property, exorbitant barking, self damaging behavior and forgetting housebreaking training.

Dogs afflicted with separation tension frequently whine, bark, cry, howl, dig, gnaw and scratch at the door the whole time their family members are away. Well meaning owners regularly accidentally inspire this misbehavior by rushing home to assure the dog, but it is really important for the well being of both dog and owner the dog learn to handle extended times of separation.

The way in which the owner leaves the house can frequently make a contribution to separation hysteria issues. A long and drawn out period of farewell can complicate things by making the dog feel more isolated when the owner eventually leaves. These long sorts of farewells can get the dog excited, and then leave him with lots of excess energy and no way to work it off. These excited, isolated dogs frequently work off their excess energy in the most harmful of ways, for example gnawing up a fave rug or piece of furniture.

Excess energy is often confused with separation tension, since results are sometimes the same. If you suspect that excess amounts of energy could be the difficulty, try giving your dog more exercise to determine if that gets rid of the problem. If separation anxiousness is really the difficulty, it's important to address the root reasons behind that tension. To forestall separation anxiety from occurring, it's vital for the dog to feel happy, calm, secure, safe and comfy while the owner is away for the day.

It's really important, as an example, to give your dog lots of things to keep busy while you are away. This implies providing it with plenty of toys, such as balls or gnaw toys.

A pet companion is commonly effective at relieving separation tension too. Giving the dog a playmate, for example another dog or a kitty, is a way for busy pet folks and pets alike to deal with the strain of being left alone. Putting aside prepared play times, in which the pet is given your total attention, is another good way to assuage boredom and separation anxiousness. Playing with the dog, and providing him with adequate attention and exercise, is a definite way to avoid a stressed and concerned dog.

A content dog which has been well exercised and well conditioned will most likely sleep the day away happily and patiently wait for the return of its owner. It is very important to schedule one of these daily play sessions before you leave the house every day. It's vital to give the dog a couple of minutes to settle down after playtime before you leave. For dogs that are experiencing separation nervousness and associated misbehavior's, it's vital to get him used to your leaving steadily.

Be certain to practice leaving and returning at irregular intervals, numerous times in the day. Doing so will get your dog used to your departures and help him understand that you aren't leaving him for evermore. Dogs that have been lost in the past, or those that have been surrendered to shelters and readopted, regularly have the worst issues with separation stress. Part of treating this problem is teaching the dog that your leaving isn't permanent.

Teach your dog to shake hands

The 1st dog trick that's usually taught to a dog is to shake hands. This is an easy trick to learn, yet there are some dogs out there that still haven't learned it. That's exactly what this post is all about, you can teach your dog this trick, even without prior experience in dog training. If you take hold of a dog's paw and say paw or shake and repeat the performance frequently enough and at odd times, it'll be the most natural thing for a dog to put his paw in your hand as fast as you extend it and he hears the word paw, to which he has become accustomed.

If in the coaching you usually take hold of the right paw, this paw will always be the one he'll give you, but he'll be taught to give you the left paw by taking it when you make the request. You can make the performance more fascinating by pronouncing shake hands when you would like the right paw and when you would like the left paw say left paw. This gives your audience the idea that your dog understands that it is normal to shake hands with the right hand and he also has a left paw, actually that's what he really learns.

Should your dog offer you the left paw when you ask to shake hands, repeat your command clearly, and when he sees, after a second or 2, that you aren't going to take the paw he offers, he is going to put it down and in all chance offer you the other paw, which is the one you would like. You need to take it immediately and hold it for a minute, then lavish him with praise along with a treat.

Some dogs, after adequate practice at this trick, get so incessant that they repetitively offer their paw to each one who will take it. A friend told me of a dog of one of the bigger breeds which was so used to offering his paw that one day when a stray kitty made its appearance in the house, it turned out to be quite comical. He made a menacing rush at the trespasser, but stopped short as he was right in front of the kitty, and then held out his paw as always to supply a genial hand shake.

Enjoy training the dog the hand shake trick and most definitely, have fun!

Dogs are highly intelligent

The intelligence of the dog is among the highest of all the animals, perhaps higher than we give him credit for. Though his brain is proportionately only half as big as ours, he's actually the most intellectual of domestic animals.

While no one breed can necessarily be said to be smarter than another, some breeds which have been selectively bred for work capability are sometimes brighter and more receptive than those bred essentially for solely physical features (depending on how intelligence is defined). Whether a dog is a mixed breed or only one dog breed, research has proven that neither is far more intellectual than the other. dogs that have been exposed to a more varied way of living, both inside and out, and with both human and animal interaction, does seem to show more intelligent behavior. In simple terms giving your dog a chance to analyze and manipulate all kinds of objects, to explore all kinds of places, to share all kinds of experiences with you'll excite their intelligence.

Except for getting lots more out of life, your dog will be excited to learn more and he'll learn with augmenting ease and rapidity. Nothing is unhappier and more wasteful than a clever dog that's restrained in a dog house and deprived of psychological stimulation. Doogs are furnished with an elementary reasoning power. Anyone that has ever owned a dog has usually seen him size up a situation and then taken some logical action. Guide dogs for the blind, as well as working and hunting dogs of many breeds consistently have to use their judgment and make choices. Memory is a very important element of intelligence.

Your dog's visible memory is only fair. However, his memory for sounds and smells is superb, since he can recall and identify familiar smells and voices even after many years have past. Your dog can build up a massive store of identifiable sounds without the tiniest effort, recalling different words easily. There are those that would debate whether a dog's capacity for learning is more a matter of memory than of true understanding, or that he simply remembers the sequence of cause and effect in his actions, but he's unable to draw broad conclusions from his experience.

The bigger the range of experiences and contact with others they have, the faster they learn, and the more they keep. Dogs are bound by nature extremely intelligent, and we owe them an opportunity to develop their local intelligence by coaching, teaching, and working with them as much and as frequently as we are able to.

Pet Food Marketing Hype - The Inside Scoop From a Holistic Veterinarian By Jean Hofve, DVM

A trip down the pet food aisle these days will boggle the mind with all the wonderful claims made by manufacturers for their particular products. But what's the truth behind all this marvelous hype? You might be very surprised...let's take a look.

1. Niche claims. Today, if you have an indoor cat, a canine athlete, a Persian, a Bloodhound, a Yorkie, or a pet with a tender tummy or itchy feet, you can find a food "designed" just for your pet's personal needs. Niche marketing has arrived in a big way in the pet food industry. People like to feel special, and a product with specific appeal is bound to sell better than a general product like "puppy food." But the reality is that there are only two nutritional standards against which all pet foods are measured (adult and growth/gestation/lactation)-everything else is marketing. Your best bet is a food made with good quality ingredients that satisfies "All Life Stages."

2. "Natural" or "Organic" claims. The definition of "natural" adopted by AAFCO is very broad, and allows for artificially processed ingredients that most of us would consider very unnatural indeed. The term "organic," on the other hand, has a very strict legal definition that the USDA has ruled applies to pet food. However, some companies are adept at evading the intent of these rules. For instance, the name of the company or product may be intentionally misleading. For instance, some companies use terms like "Nature" or "Natural" in the brand name, whether or not their products fit the definition of natural.

3. Ingredient quality claims. A lot of pet foods claim they contain "human grade" ingredients. This is a completely meaningless term-which is why the pet food companies get away with using it. The same applies to "USDA inspected" or similar phrases. The implication is that the food is made using ingredients that are passed by the USDA for human consumption, but there are many ways around this. For instance, a facility might be USDA-inspected during the day, but the pet food is made at night after the inspector goes home. The use of such terms should be viewed as a "Hype Alert."

4. "Meat is the first ingredient" claim. A claim that a named meat (chicken, lamb, etc.) is the #1 ingredient is generally seen for dry food. Ingredients are listed on the label by weight, and raw chicken weighs a lot, since contains a lot of water. If you look further down the list, you're likely to see ingredients such as chicken or poultry by-product meal, meat-and-bone meal, corn gluten meal, soybean meal, or other dry protein. Meals have had the fat and water removed, and basically consist of a dry, lightweight, high-protein powder. It doesn't take much raw chicken to weigh more than a great big pile of this powder. Not only that, but the "chicken" used in dry food is actually a slurry of about 90% water; so in reality the food is based on the protein meal, with very little "chicken" to be found.

This has become a very popular marketing gimmick, even in premium and "health food" type brands. Since everybody is now using it, any meaning it may once have had is so watered-down that you may just as well ignore it.

5. Special ingredient claims. Many of the high-end pet foods today rely on the marketing appeal of people-food ingredients such as fruits, herbs, vegetables, and a variety of supplements such as glucosamine or probiotics. However, the amounts of these items actually present in the food are small and not therapeutic. Fruits and vegetables are usually scraps and rejects from processors of human foods-certainly not the whole, fresh ingredients they want you to picture. Such ingredients don't provide a significant health benefit and are just a marketing gimmick.

It's a jungle out there...Pet food marketing and advertising has become extremely sophisticated over the last few years. It's important to know what is hype and what is real, so you can make informed decisions about what to feed your pets.

Dr. Jean Hofve is a retired holistic veterinarian with a special interest in nutrition and behavior. Her informational website, http://www.littlebigcat.com, features an extensive free article library on feline health and pet nutrition, as well as a free e-newsletter. Dr. Hofve founded Spirit Essences Holistic Remedies for Animals (http://www.spiritessence.com) in 1995; and it remains the only line of flower essence formulas designed by a veterinarian. She is a certified Medicine Woman within the Nemenhah Native American Traditional Organization who uses holistic remedies as a part of body-mind-spiritual healing.

Canine with cataracts and diabetes copes (video)

This is how a blind dog with diabetes and cataracts is getting by with a little help.

Canine cataracts

Canine cataracts is an optic condition that relates to the opacity or fogginess of the lens of the eye in the optic. Cataracts may impact a part or the whole lens of the eye. It is a successive condition that starts as embryotic cataract which is a moderate development, and if untreated it will step by step move on to an early and mature cataract which is a serious cause for concern. Cataracts in dogs may result in total departure of vision if it is not handled quickly.

All dogs are susceptible to cataracts disregardless of their age, gender and breed. Cataracts in dogs raises gradually, regarding their abilities right from the instant they formulate this development. There are no known inoculations yet for canine cataracts and may only be cared for once it originates.

Causes

Reasons for cataracts in canines can be congenital or nonheritable. nonheritable cataracts are genetical in nature and usually impact both optics. While this development could be present at parturition in some breeds, such as Cocker Spaniels and Poodle Dogs, in others it can formulate anytime during the first few weeks of their lifetimes. Older age may also stimulate cataracts and is mentioned as old cataracts. It commonly arises in canines that are 6 years or older.

Causal Agents for received cataracts let in diabetes, previous injury, trauma, instability in the metabolism of the lens in the optic and nutritional deficiencies. Cataracts caused by harm ofttimes affect only one eye, while other strains of the circumstance can impact both oculi.

Symptoms

The most prominent symptom of pooch cataracts is light or blurry optics. other symptoms include swelling, redness and pain around the eyeballs, winking, hesitancy to research different territories, determined hesitancy to rising stairs, consecutive knocking into things and lessening in actions the likes of jumps.

Intervention

The to the highest degree effective Handling for cataracts in canines is sugical intervention, especially if the condition is overwhelming. The operation has to be concluded only by a licensed pet surgeon as it requires anaesthesia and surgical incisions. Notwithstanding, even surgical operation cannot always ensure out-and-out restitution of sight.

Cataracts surgical procedure is called phacoemulsification and requires removal of the fogged or affected lens of the eye and exchanging it with an faux lens. In some cases, sutura might be needed to supporting the put in lens. Reckoning on various factors the convalescence time may be anywhere from a few days to more than 6 weeks.

Yet, to undergo this , canines have to be fit and healthy. dogs with other conditions like unregulated diabetes are not believed as suitable candidates for surgical procedure. Regrettably, there are no other known methods that are as effective for cataracts. While surgical procedure cannot restore sight in all events, it can definitely help to improve it.

Fortuitously, cataract surgery is virtually frequently 90 to 95% productive. In some events the routines do not give the desired results because the cataracts are so bad that pet veterinary surgeons are not capable to do much to overthrow the circumstance.

It is important for you to understand that cataracts in canines are a bit by bit advancing disease that may be reversed if diagnosed in early degrees. Regular optic exams may help in early detection and if diagnosed make sure that appropriate intervention is given to turnaround the circumstance.

Small Dog Dental Care - Things You Need to Be Aware Of By Dr. Jan Bellows, DVM

Regular dental care is important for all dogs, but small sized dogs or toy breeds like Yorkshire Terriers, Bichons, Chihuahuas, and other similar breeds have special dental requirements that must be considered.

Most veterinarians report that progressive levels of dental disease is the most common issue seen in the clinic. Unfortunately, plaque buildup and gingivitis can lead to not only tooth loss but can also allow hazardous levels of bacteria into the bloodstream, potentially causing damage to other organs like the heart and kidney.

Small breeds add additional problems into the mix. First, their mouths are considerably smaller than larger breeds. Secondly, small breeds commonly eat soft canned food or people food which sticks to the teeth and gums. Finally, small dogs usually live longer, giving periodontal disease more time to cause problems. When puppies begin the process of losing their puppy teeth and making way for the adult teeth, some toy breeds have a harder than normal time 'pushing' out these baby teeth. These stubborn baby teeth will have to be removed by a veterinarian. In addition, breeds like the Japanese Chin and Chihuahua have extremely tiny muzzles; therefore, toy breeds could experience overcrowding of teeth. In order to maintain a normal bite and correct alignment, veterinarian removal of some teeth may also be necessary.

Toy breeds also seem to acquire tartar and plague buildup faster and sooner than many of the larger breeds. A good dental health routine needs to be established while the dog is still young. Here are a few suggestions for maintaining proper dental health in toy breeds:

1. Begin exposing your puppy as soon as you bring him home to the idea of touching his mouth and teeth. Put doggie dental paste on your finger for him to lick off. The more accustomed he is to the sensations, the easier to properly clean his teeth.

2. Clean the daily debris from his teeth. There are several options for keeping his teeth nice and clean. Daily cleanings are ideal, but try to clean at least a few times a week. You can use either a small baby washcloth moistened with warm water, a pet finger tooth brush, or a small extra-soft bristled child's toothbrush (the heads on these toothbrushes are very small). Apply just a small amount of pet toothpaste and gently apply to the teeth. You can clean just a few teeth at a time until he becomes more comfortable with the process.

3. There are several liquid products that can be applied to the teeth on a regular basis to help discourage bacterial growth. Veterinarians can also apply OraVet (a plaque control gel) as well as a proper dental cleaning.

4. Toys and treats can be an essential part of dental care, but you must be careful what your toy breed is chewing on. Many small dogs have cracked or broken teeth on inappropriate chew toys. Make sure to only purchase chew treats that are specifically made for toy breeds. Other products will have warning labels stating not for use by breeds under 15 pounds. Never provide your dog with an inappropriate product. Many products have been approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council (BVOHC.org) for toy breeds.

5. During your yearly veterinarian exam, be sure to heed the advice of your veterinarian. If he or she feels a thorough dental cleaning under anesthesia would be best, schedule an appointment for the procedure. By establishing a good dental care program early on and consistently doing it, your toy breed will have excellent oral health. Make sure to brush your dog's teeth regularly, avoid chew treats that are inappropriate for it, and schedule professional cleanings when warranted. Remember to routinely inspect your dog's mouth as well to insure there is no overcrowding of teeth or diseased teeth that might need to be removed. Lastly, note any observations of changes in teeth or gums like swelling, discharge, or growths, and be sure to point these out to your vet during a visit.

Visit the veterinarian and dentist who treats your pets at All Pets Dental Clinic and Hometown Animal Hospital, Jan Bellows DVM. Dr. Jan Bellows specializes in the treatment of small animals, and is a Diplomate to both the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners and the American Veterinary Dental College. His practices, All Pets Dental Clinic and Hometown Animal Hospital, have been caring for your pets since 1977. They can be reached at 954-349-5800.

Dog Training - Understanding Your Dog and 5 Simple Training Tips By Dr. Michael Fredrick DVM

Understanding how to train your dog is best accomplished by first understanding how they think and where they come from. Dogs are most closely genetically linked to the wolf. Wolfs were originally used by the American Indians as a source of food that would follow them on their nomadic expeditions. The American Indians eventually invited them into their tribes and trained the wolves to protect and to hunt for them. The wolves became part of the American Indians tribes or "pack". This is important in understanding a pack mentality for training your dog.

You must be a leader of your pack of animals at all times to successfully train your dog. Dog are very sensitive to eye contact and tone of voice. Gestures and facial expression as well should be used to train pets.

5 Simple training tips:

#1- Tone of voice- Very important since dogs do not speak English fluently. Dogs can be trained to understand a variety of words but tone is the most important. Deeper tones should always be used when your dog is being punished. Very high tones should be used when your pet does something well such as going to the bathroom outside or coming to you when they are called.

#2- Eye contact- Always make direct eye contact with your dog when training them. Make sure they are the first to look away, this helps to establish dominance.

#3- Handling- You and others should be able to handle any part of your pet. Starting early with nail clipping and baths is very important in creating trust between you and your pet. This also is important for future visits to the groomers or medical procedures at your veterinarians.

#4- Leash training- Leash training is the first step to getting your pet to listen off leash. The best method for stopping your dog from pulling on the leash is to change directions once they begin to pull and shout "heal". This causes them to be off guard and trains them to want to stay by your side to be ready for a change of direction.

#5- Bite deterrent- For puppies one of the best methods for deterring biting is to place your finger in the back of their throat which stimulates a gag reflex. This makes the connection that chewing on fingers is uncomfortable.

Training tools:

There are 2 cheap training tools that should be purchased help with the tasks above:

#1 Gentle leader- This is a great device used to place pressure on the muzzle when leash walking. Neck leads such as collar stimulate dogs to pull since they are built to pull with their strong neck muscles. When the leader is pulled, the pressure is created in a downward motion which causes the animal to stop. This device is much more humane than pincher collars or "choke chains" which cause pain.

#2 Nail trimmers- This is a great way to save money and earn trust with your pets. Start off only trimming very small amounts of the nail so no pain is associated with the trimming. This also saves money by not needing to pay for nail trims and keeps your dog from break their nails when they are long.

Visit PetVetWisdom.com to find vet recommended Dog Training. A great source for all your pet information including experts on puppy and dog training.

Petvetwisdom was created by veterinarians to help our pet owners save money on veterinary care and find information on common diseases. We have veterinarians on staff to answer any pet questions via email for no charge.

Is your dog refusing to eat?

Has your dog suddenly become a finicky eater? There are dogs that naturally scarf down food as if every meal is the last. There are dogs that tend to be a little fussier and particular at mealtime. If your dog has changed eating patterns, becoming even more finicky, there's a reason why. This article lists a few reasons your dog may seem to have lost his appetite.

One reason your dog may become a finicky eater is dental problems. Your dog won't be apt to eat as much if he's dealing with a toothache. Health reasons such as respiratory diseases, infections, cancer, parasites, kidney and liver issues can cause loss of appetite as well. Besides physical issues, psychological issues such as stress can create an abrupt change in eating patterns. If your dog doesn't eat for 2-3 days, he will need to see a veterinarian.

Of course, it could be your dog food. Did you know that even dry dog food has a shelf life? It should have a "best if used by" date right on the container. If you don't seal the bag after every use, oxygen will decrease it's shelf life as well. In addition, storing dog food in high humidity areas like a laundry room or basement can cause mold growth. Even if you don't see mold, your dog may be tasting it, and refuse to eat.

Routine is very important to dogs. If you suddenly change dog foods, your dog may refuse to eat. If you're planning to change your dogs diet, it's usually best to do it gradually. Even changing the time or frequency of eating, can cause a temporary lack of appetite. If you don't leave food out all the time, it's best to stay on schedule. Allow your dog a relaxing place to eat free of distractions from children, loud noises, and other pets.

If your dog is by nature finicky, try to get the highest calorie quality dog food available. You'll find a variety if you search for dog food labeled with "high energy" or created for working dogs.

What is in Pet Food? By Troy Foote

A book entitled " Food Pets Die For: Shocking Facts About Pet Food." by Ann Martin describes in detail what harm we are doing in feeding our pets conventional pet food.

The book is shocking, well researched, and very disturbing.

Her two dogs became very sick after eating a dry dog food. The food was analyzed by two independent labs, as well as a Ministry of Agriculture lab.

The independent labs determined there was a toxic level of zinc in the dog food. After nine months of waiting for the government lab to finish its testing, the results indicated there were no toxic mineral levels.

She took the pet food manufacturer to court to recover the costs of her veterinary bills and the testing, and subsequently lost the case. This began her seven-year investigation of the pet food industry.

Here is an excerpt from her book:

Television commercials and magazine advertisements for pet food would have us believe that the meats, grains, and fats used in these foods could grace our dining tables.

Chicken, beef, lamb, whole grains, and quality fats are supposedly the composition of dog and cat food.

In my opinion, when we purchase these bags and cans of commercial food, we are in most cases purchasing garbage.

Unequivocally, I cannot state that all pet food falls into this category, but I have yet to find one that I could, in all good conscience, feed my dog or cats.

Pet food labels can be deceiving. They only provide half the story. The other half of the story is hidden behind obscure ingredients listed on the labels. Bit by bit, over seven years, I have been able to unearth information about what is contained in most commercial pet food.

At first I was shocked, but my shock turned to anger when I realized how little the consumer is told about the actual contents of the pet food.

As discussed in Chapter Two, companion animals from clinics, pounds, and shelters can and are being rendered and used as sources of protein in pet food. Dead-stock removal operations play a major role in the pet food industry.

Dead animals, road kill that cannot be buried at roadside, and in some cases, zoo animals, are picked up by these dead stock operations. When an animal dies in the field or is killed due to illness or disability, the dead stock operators pick them up and truck them to the receiving plant.

There the dead animal is salvaged for meat or, depending on the state of decomposition, delivered to a rendering plant. At the receiving plants, the animals of value are skinned and viscera removed. Hides of cattle and calves are sold for tanning. The usable meat is removed from the carcass, and covered in charcoal to prevent it from being used for human consumption. Then the meat is frozen, and sold as animal food, which includes pet food.

The packages of this frozen meat must be clearly marked as "unfit for human consumption." The rest of the carcass and poorer quality products including viscera, fat, etcetera, are sent to the rendering facilities. Rendering plants are melting pots for all types of refuse. Restaurant grease and garbage; meats and baked goods long past the expiration dates from supermarkets (Styrofoam trays and shrink-wrap included); the entrails from dead stock removal operations, and the condemned and contaminated material from slaughterhouses. All of these are rendered.

The slaughterhouses where cattle, pigs, goats, calves, sheep, poultry, and rabbits meet their fate, provide more fuel for rendering. After slaughter, heads, feet, skin, toenails, hair, feathers, carpal and tarsal joints, and mammary glands are removed. This material is sent to rendering. Animals who have died on their way to slaughter are rendered. Cancerous tissue or tumors and worm-infested organs are rendered. Injection sites, blood clots, bone splinters, or extraneous matter are rendered. Contaminated blood is rendered. Stomach and bowels are rendered.

Contaminated material containing or having been treated with a substance not permitted by, or in any amount in excess of limits prescribed under the Food and Drug Act or the Environmental Protection Act. In other words, If a carcass contains high levels of drugs or pesticides this material is rendered.

Before rendering, this material from the slaughterhouse is "denatured," which means that the material from the slaughterhouse is covered with a particular substance to prevent it from getting back into the human food chain.

In the United States the substances used for denaturing include: crude carbolic acid, fuel oil, or citronella.

In Canada the denaturing agent is Birkolene B. When I asked, the Ministry of Agriculture would not divulge the composition of Birkolene B, stating its ingredients are a trade secret.

At the rendering plant, slaughterhouse material, restaurant and supermarket refuse, dead stock, road kill, and euthanized companion animals are dumped into huge containers. A machine slowly grinds the entire mess. After it is chipped or shredded, it is cooked at temperatures of between 220 degrees F. and 270 degrees F. (104.4 to 132.2 degrees C.) for twenty minutes to one hour. The grease or tallow rises to the top, where it is removed from the mixture. This is the source of animal fat in most pet foods. The remaining material, the raw, is then put into a press where the moisture is squeezed out. We now have meat and bone meal.

The Association of American Feed Control Officials in its "Ingredient Definitions," describe meat meal as the rendered product from mammal tissue exclusive of blood, hair, hoof, hide, trimmings, manure, stomach, and rumen (the first stomach or the cud of a cud chewing animal) contents except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices. In an article written by David C. Cooke, "Animal Disposal: Fact and Fiction," Cooke noted, "Can you imagine trying to remove the hair and stomach contents from 600,000 tons of dog and cats prior to cooking them?" It would seem that either the Association of American Feed Control Officials definition of meat meal or meat and bone meal should be redefined or it needs to include a better description of "good factory practices."

When 4-D animals are picked up and sent to these rendering facilities, you can be assured that the stomach contents are not removed. The blood is not drained nor are the horns and hooves removed. The only portion of the animal that might be removed is the hide and any meat that may be salvageable and not too diseased to be sold as raw pet food or livestock feed. The Minister of Agriculture in Quebec made it clear that companion animals are rendered completely.

Pet Food Industry magazine states that a pet food manufacturer might reject rendered material for various reasons, including the presence of foreign material (metals, hair, plastic, rubber, glass), off odor, excessive feathers, hair or hog bristles, bone chunks, mold, chemical analysis out of specification, added blood, leather, or calcium carbonate, heavy metals, pesticide contamination, improper grind or bulk density, and insect infestation.

Please note that this article states that the manufacturer might reject this material, not that it does reject this material.

If the label on the pet food you purchase states that the product contains meat meal, or meat and bone meal, it is possible that it is comprised of all the materials listed above.

Meat, as defined by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), is the clean flesh derived from slaughtered mammals and is limited to that part of the striate muscle that is skeletal or that which is found in the tongue, diaphragm, heart, or esophagus; with or without the accompanying and overlying fat and the portions of the skin, sinew, nerve, and blood vessels that normally accompany the flesh. When you read on a pet food label that the product contains "real meat," you are getting blood vessels, sinew and so on-hardly the tasty meat that the industry would have us believe it is putting in the food.

Meat by-products are the non rendered, clean parts other than meat derived from slaughtered mammals. It includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. Again, be assured that if it could be used for human consumption, such as kidneys and livers, it would not be going into pet food. If a liver is found to be infested with worms (liver flukes), if lungs are filled with pneumonia, these can become pet food. However, in Canada, disease-free intestines can still be used for sausage casing for humans instead of pet food.

What about other sources of protein that can be used in pet food?

Poultry-by-product meal consists of ground, rendered, clean parts of the carcasses of slaughtered poultry, such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, and intestines, exclusive of feathers, except in such amounts as might occur unavoidably in good processing practice.

Poultry-hatchery by-products are a mixture of egg shells, infertile and unhatched eggs and culled chicks that have been cooked, dried and ground, with or without removal of part of the fat.

Poultry by-products include non rendered clean parts of carcasses of slaughtered poultry such as heads, feet, and viscera, free of fecal content and foreign matter except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory practice. These are all definitions as listed in the AAFCO "Ingredient Definitions."

Hydrolyzed poultry feather is another source of protein - not digestible protein, but protein nonetheless. This product results from the treatment under pressure of clean, intact feathers from slaughtered poultry free of additives, and/or accelerators.

We have covered the meat and poultry that can be used in commercial pet foods but according to the AAFCO there are a number of other sources that can make up the protein in these foods. As we venture down the road of these other sources, please be advised to proceed at your own risk if you have a weak stomach.

Hydrolysed hair is a product prepared from clean hair treated by heat and pressure to produce a product suitable for animal feeding. Spray-dried animal blood is produced from clean, fresh animal blood, exclusive of all extraneous material such as hair, stomach belching (contents of stomach), and urine, except in such traces as might occur unavoidably in good factory practices.

Dehydrated food-waste is any and all animal and vegetable produce picked up from basic food processing sources or institutions where food is processed. The produce shall be picked up daily or sufficiently often so that no decomposition is evident. With this ingredient, it seems that what you don't see won't hurt you.

Dehydrated garbage is composed of artificially dried animal and vegetable waste collected sufficiently often that harmful decomposition has not set in and from which have been separated crockery, glass, metal, string, and similar materials.

Dehydrated paunch products are composed of the contents of the rumen of slaughtered cattle, dehydrated at temperatures over 212 degrees F. (100 degrees C.) to a moisture content of 12 percent or less, such dehydration is designed to destroy any pathogenic bacteria.

Dried poultry waste is a processed animal waste product composed primarily of processed ruminant excreta that has been artificially dehydrated to a moisture content not in excess of 15 percent. It shall contain not less than 12 percent crude protein, not more than 40 percent crude fiber, including straw, wood shavings and so on, and not more than 30 percent ash.

Dried swine waste is a processed animal-waste product composed primarily of swine excreta that has been artificially dehydrated to a moisture content not in excess of 15 percent. It shall contain not less than 20 percent crude protein, not more than 35 percent crude fiber, including other material such as straw, woodshavings, or acceptable bedding materials, and not more than 20 percent ash.

Undried processed animal waste product is composed of excreta, with or without the litter, from poultry, ruminants, or any other animal except humans, which may or may not include other feed ingredients, and which contains in excess of 15 percent feed ingredients, and which contains in excess of 15 percent moisture. It shall contain no more than 30 percent combined wood, woodshavings, litter, dirt, sand, rocks, and similar extraneous materials.

After reading this list of ingredients for the first time and not really believing that such ingredients could be used in pet food, I sent a fax to the chair of the AAFCO to inquire. "Would the 'Feed Ingredient Definitions' apply to pet food as well as livestock feed?" The reply was as follows, "The feed ingredient definitions approved by the AAFCO apply to all animal feeds, including pet foods, unless specific animal species restrictions are noted."

If a pet food lists "meat by-products" on the label, remember that this is the material that usually comes from the slaughterhouse industry or dead stock removal operations, classified as condemned or contaminated, unfit for human consumption. Meat meal, meat and bone meal, digests, and tankage (specifically animal tissue including bones and exclusive of hair, hoofs, horns, and contents of digestive tract) are composed of rendered material. The label need not state what the composition of this material is, as each batch rendered would consist of a different material. These are the sources of protein that we are feeding our companion animals. In 1996 I decided to find out the cost of this "quality" material that the pet food companies purchase from the rendering facilities. Aware that a phone call from an ordinary citizen would not elicit the information I required, I set about forming my own independent pet food company. Stating that my company was about to begin producing quality pet food, I asked for a price quote on meat by-products and meat meal from a Canadian rendering company and from a U.S. rendering company.

Both facilities I contacted were more than pleased to provide this information. As I was just a small company and did not require that much material to begin production, the cost was higher than it would have been for one of the large multinationals. Meat and bone meal, with a content of a minimum of 50 percent protein, 12 percent fat, 8 percent moisture, 8 percent calcium, 4 percent phosphorus, and 30 percent ash, could be purchased by me, a small independent company for less than 12¢ (Canadian) a pound.

As for the meat by-products the prices varied:. liver sold at 21¢ per pound, veal at 22¢ per pound, and lungs for only 12¢ per pound.

The main ingredient in dry food for dogs and cats is corn.

However, on further investigation, I found that according to the AAFCO, the list is lengthy as to the corn products that can be used in pet food. These include, but are not limited to the following ingredients.

Corn four is the fine-size hard flinty portions of ground corn containing little or none of the bran or germ. Corn bran is the outer coating of the corn kernel, with little or none of the starchy part of the germ. Corn gluten meal is the dried residue from corn after the removal of the larger part of the starch and germ, and the separation of the bran by the process employed in the wet milling manufacture of corn starch or syrup, or by enzymatic treatment of the endosperm.

Wheat is a constituent found in many pet foods. Again the AAFCO gives descriptive terms for wheat products. Wheat flour consists principally of wheat flour together with fine particles of wheat bran, wheat germ, and the offal from the "tail of the mill." Tail of the mill is nothing more then the sweepings of leftovers after everything has been processed from the week.

Wheat germ meal consists chiefly of wheat germ together with some bran and middlings or shorts. Wheat middlings and shorts are also categorized as the fine particles of wheat germ, bran, flour and offal from the "tail of the mill."

Both corn and wheat are usually the first ingredients listed on both dry dog and cat food labels. If they are not the first ingredients, they are the second and third that together make up most of the sources of protein in that particular product. Perhaps the pet food industry is not aware that cats are carnivores and therefore should derive their protein from meat, not grains? In 1995 one large pet food company, located in California, recalled $20 million worth of its dog food. This food was found to contain vomitoxin. Vomitoxin is formed when grains become wet and moldy. This toxin was found in "wheat screenings" used in the pet food. The FDA did investigate but not out of concern for the more than 250 dogs that became ill after ingesting this food. It investigated because of concerns for human health. The contaminated wheat screenings were the end product of wheat flour that would be used in the making of pasta. Wheat for baking flour requires a higher quality of wheat. Wheat screenings, which are not used for human consumption, can include broken grains, crop and weed seeds, hulls, chaff, joints, straw, elevator or mill dust, sand, and dirt.

Fat is usually the second ingredient listed on the pet food labels. Fats can be sprayed directly on the food or mixed with the other ingredients. Fats give off a pungent odor that entices your pet to eat the garbage. These fats are sourced from restaurant grease. This oil is rancid and unfit for human consumption. One of the main sources of fat comes from the rendering plant. This is obtained from the tissues of mammals and/or poultry in the commercial process of rendering or extracting.

An article in Petted Industry magazine does not indicate concern about the impurities in this rendered material as it relates to pet food. Dr. Tim Phillips writes, "Impurities could be small particles of fiber, hair, hide, bone, soil or polyethylene. Or they could be dirt or metal particles picked up after processing (during storage and/or transport).

Impurities can cause clogging problems in fat handling screens, nozzles, etc. and contribute to the build-up of sludge in storage tanks."

Other tasty ingredients that can be added to commercial pet food include:

Beet pulp is the dried residue from sugar beet, added for fiber, but primarily sugar.

Soybean meal is the product obtained by grinding the flakes that remain after the removal of most of the oil from soybeans by a solvent extraction process.

Powdered cellulose is purified, mechanically disintegrated cellulose prepared by processing alpha cellulose obtained as a pulp from fibrous plant material. In other words, sawdust.

Sugar foods by-products result from the grinding and mixing of inedible portions derived from the preparation and packaging of sugar-based food products such as candy, dry packaged drinks, dried gelatin mixes, and similar food products that are largely composed of sugar.

Ground almond and peanut shells are used as another source of fiber.

Fish is a source of protein. If you own a cat, just open a can of food that contains fish and watch kitty come running. The parts used are fish heads, tails, fins, bones, and viscera. R.L. Wysong, DVM, states that because the entire fish is not used it does not contain many of the fat soluble vitamins, minerals, and omega-3 fatty acids. If, however, the entire fish is used for pet food, oftentimes it is because the fish contains a high level of mercury or other toxin making it unfit for human consumption. Even fish that was canned for human consumption and that has sat on the shelf past the expiration date will be included. Tuna is used in many cat foods because of its strong odor, which cats find irresistible.

In her book The Natural Cat, Anitra Frazier describes the "tuna junkie" as an expression used by veterinarians to describe a cat hooked on tuna. According to Frazier, "The vegetable oil which it is packed in robs the cat's body of vitamin E which can result in a condition called steatitis.'' Symptoms of steatitis include extreme nervousness and severe pain when touched. The lack of vitamin E in the diet causes the nerve endings to become sensitive, and can also induce anemia and heart disease.

However, excess levels of vitamin E can be toxic. A veterinarian with an understanding of nutrition should be consulted.

One commercial food that most cats and dogs seem to love are the semi-moist foods. These kibble and burger-shaped concoctions are made to resemble real hamburger. However, according to Wendell O. Belfield and Martin Zucker in their book, How to Have a Healthier Dog, these are one of the most dangerous of all commercial pet foods. They are high in sugar, laced with dyes, additives, and preservatives, and have a shelf life that spans eternity. One pet owner wrote to me explaining that she had fed her cat some of these semi-moist tidbits. The cat became ill shortly after eating them, and even professional carpet cleaners could not remove the red dye from the carpet where her cat had been ill.

In his book, Pet Allergies: Remedies for an Epidemic, Alfred Plechner, DVM., writes, "In my opinion, semi-moist foods should be placed in a time capsule to serve as a record of modern technology gone mad." The pet food industry corrals this material, then mixes, cooks, dries and extrudes the stuff. (Extruding simply means it is pushed through a mold to form the different shapes and to make us think that these so called "chunks" are actually pieces of meat.) Dyes, additives, preservatives are routinely added and they can accumulate in the pet's body.

According to the Animal Protection Institute of America newsletter, "Investigative Report on Pet Food, "Ethoxyquin (an antioxidant preservative), was found in dogs' livers and tissue months after it had been removed from their diet."

After processing, the food is practically devoid of any nutritional value. To make up for what is lacking, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and supplements are dumped into the mix. If the minerals added are unchelated (chelated means minerals will more readily combine with proteins for better absorption), they will pass through the body virtually unused.

Most are added as a premix, and if there is a mistake made in the premix, it can throw off the entire balance. Veterinarians

Marty Goldstein and Robert Goldstein have stated that the wrong calcium/magnesium ratio can cause neuromuscular problems. As an example, when I had the commercial pet food tested by Mann Laboratories for my court case, most of the minerals showed excess levels.

Written by Troy Foote. Pet advocate and owner of Pamper Pet Care. Your online resource for pet health care and nutrition.