Your older dog has been a faithful best friend over good times and bad. Make sure he's especially rewarded by making his life comfortable in the last part of his life.
While proper nutrition and exercise is important at every stage, it's increasingly so for your geriatric dog. The definition of old age for dogs varies depending on size and breed. As a general rule, the larger your dog is, the faster he'll reach old age. An 8 year old black lab is feeling old age to a greater degree than an 8 year old Pomeranian.
What are the signs that my dog is getting old?
One of the first signs of old age is a decrease in activity level. He may not want to go for as long of a walk, run as fast, and may enjoy sleeping longer than usual. Your dog may experience arthritis, stiffening of the joints, and even get cataracts. These type of symptoms typically occur over time, and a veterinarian should be consulted. There are medications that may be able to help alleviate symptoms, and you may consider a nice comfy dog bed made from memory foam to help your dog get a good night sleep.
What about exercise for my older dog?
Exercise is always important even as your dog ages. It can help to avoid weight gain which aggravates arthritis, and improves general health. It's just that you may need to tone it down, avoiding strenuous hikes that are too physical demanding. A short walk twice a day, along with low-key playing should be plenty to keep your dog in shape.
What about nutrition for my older dog?
As dogs get older nutritional needs change, it's important to feed your dog food suitable for his stage in life. Your dog may not need as many calories, and a slower metabolism can result in weight gain. You can check to see if your dog is becoming overweight by feeling his ribs, and checking for an extra fold of skin at the base of his tail. Besides weight concerns, it's also important to make sure your dog is getting all the protein, vitamins, and minerals required.
What about Veterinary care for my older dog?
There are many changes to health as your dog gets older. Ask your veterinarian about getting a geriatric screening, or at least, commit to getting an annual checkup in which a blood test is performed to test for your dog's current state of health.
Make sure to take care of your older dog, as he has provided years of friendship and loyalty.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Monday, March 29, 2010
Dog Toy Warning
I thought this was interesting, it's an email from one of my readers regarding dog toy safety that you may want to consider.
Last night at agility class, a vet, who is a fellow agility student was telling us about a case she had this week. The dog ate a child's teddy bear and was very sick. When she opened the dog up to remove what she thought was an intestinal obstruction she found a huge gelatin type mess inside and the dogs intestines were black and the tissue dead. The dog will die no surgery can fix him up there was no living intestine left from stomach to colon.
This was not an obstruction. She called the manufacturer of the Teddy Bear on a quest to find out what the gel was and what killed the dog. Turns out the stuffing in children's toys contains ingredients for flame retardants and mite control! It is designed to be come a gel. It is highly toxic. Now you would think a child's toy would be safe because it is for children, but they don't expect a child to eat the stuffing of the toys... that seems a bit scary too. But we all know dogs demolish stuffed toys.
So do not give or buy your dog any children's stuffed animals... some people get them at goodwill etc. The vet will be posting a warning and story and I will send any other facts as needed and as I learn more. Maybe some children's toys do not have this ingredient, but better to be safe then sorry. So meanwhile, make sure all your dog toys are for dogs. Please pass this on... it is a horrible death she described and one that can be avoided.
HMM. . . makes me think about all stuffed toys we may buy at retail, thrift stores, or that may be given to our children or pets by others. Also, what about the kennel your dog goes to, or doggy day care or the church nursery? This danger can be far reaching! We get notices about high chairs and cribs - recalled ones should not be "recycled" but how can one person keep up with that info?
For the protection of your children and your pets, allow them to play with only items you have bought. And inspect them daily for tears or breaks, in case some type of poison is leaking out!
I wrote some years ago about my friend's English Springer Spaniel who got very very sick. No apparent reason. But Buddy loved tennis balls. And he had torn up the outside of a "high quality" tennis ball with a titanium center. After X-rays, the vet found that the titanium center had been swallowed by the dog and was stuck in his digestive track. The affected area was removed, Buddy stayed in the vet hosp for 3 weeks, and finally died. Died at a young age from the leeching of poison from the titanium into his system. It didn't have to be! But how would she have known the center was toxic? I doubt that PetsMart's tennis balls carry this in the center (it's probably empty) but what about those used tennis balls of yours in the doggy toy box?
Last night at agility class, a vet, who is a fellow agility student was telling us about a case she had this week. The dog ate a child's teddy bear and was very sick. When she opened the dog up to remove what she thought was an intestinal obstruction she found a huge gelatin type mess inside and the dogs intestines were black and the tissue dead. The dog will die no surgery can fix him up there was no living intestine left from stomach to colon.
This was not an obstruction. She called the manufacturer of the Teddy Bear on a quest to find out what the gel was and what killed the dog. Turns out the stuffing in children's toys contains ingredients for flame retardants and mite control! It is designed to be come a gel. It is highly toxic. Now you would think a child's toy would be safe because it is for children, but they don't expect a child to eat the stuffing of the toys... that seems a bit scary too. But we all know dogs demolish stuffed toys.
So do not give or buy your dog any children's stuffed animals... some people get them at goodwill etc. The vet will be posting a warning and story and I will send any other facts as needed and as I learn more. Maybe some children's toys do not have this ingredient, but better to be safe then sorry. So meanwhile, make sure all your dog toys are for dogs. Please pass this on... it is a horrible death she described and one that can be avoided.
HMM. . . makes me think about all stuffed toys we may buy at retail, thrift stores, or that may be given to our children or pets by others. Also, what about the kennel your dog goes to, or doggy day care or the church nursery? This danger can be far reaching! We get notices about high chairs and cribs - recalled ones should not be "recycled" but how can one person keep up with that info?
For the protection of your children and your pets, allow them to play with only items you have bought. And inspect them daily for tears or breaks, in case some type of poison is leaking out!
I wrote some years ago about my friend's English Springer Spaniel who got very very sick. No apparent reason. But Buddy loved tennis balls. And he had torn up the outside of a "high quality" tennis ball with a titanium center. After X-rays, the vet found that the titanium center had been swallowed by the dog and was stuck in his digestive track. The affected area was removed, Buddy stayed in the vet hosp for 3 weeks, and finally died. Died at a young age from the leeching of poison from the titanium into his system. It didn't have to be! But how would she have known the center was toxic? I doubt that PetsMart's tennis balls carry this in the center (it's probably empty) but what about those used tennis balls of yours in the doggy toy box?
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Cartoon Dogs
The United States loves dogs, and that includes in films and television. We have dogs in newspaper comic strips, dogs starring in Saturday morning cartoons, and dogs in major Hollywood movies. Both real dogs, and fictitious characters have been portrayed in film, songs, literature, video games, and comic strips. A few of the popular dog cartoons include Sandy, Snoopy, Odie, and Santa’s Little Helper.
1924 – Sandy
Harold Gray’s comic strip from 1924 featured Little Orphan Annie and her dog Sandy. Sandy frequently followed Little Orphan Annie on her adventures to watch over her. The most famous quote from Sandy is “ARF!”
1950 – Snoopy
Snoopy, a Beagle, became popular in the 1950's comic strip by Charles Schultz, and is considered to be an American icon. Snoopy was in the Peanuts comic strip, and frequently fought the Red Baron while sitting on top of his dog house. Snoopy the dog was a collector of fine art. Further, he was attempting to write a novel, but never seemed to make it past “it was a dark and stormy night.” Even today, Snoopy merchandise including clothing, blankets, watches, and figurines has wide appeal.
1980’s – Odie
Odie wasn't known as an intellectual, but was extremely lovable. It seems that his character existed to take abuse from Garfield the cat. Odie was mute, couldn't talk in the cartoon, and didn't even think in words. Odie was a companion to Garfield in the Jim Davis comic strip. While Garfield was, for the most part, mean to Odie, there were moments when Garfield's affection for Odie was apparent, even with his incessant slobbering.
1990 – Santa’s Little Helper
Santa’s Little Helper is the greyhound in The Simpsons that couldn’t win a race if his life depended on it. In the first episode featuring SLH on Christmas Eve, Homer made a bet on him as a long shot. He was hoping to win the bet to remove a tattoo from Bart's arm. The dog actually came out dead last, and was abandoned at the track by his original owner. After being abandoned, Homer was the first person spotted by Santa’s Little Helper. SLH made a beeline towards him, and they hit it off immediately. It turned out to be a good Christmas after all.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Safe Toys For Small Dogs
Dog toys add a fun dimension at playtime, regardless if your dog is small, medium, or large. You can buy dog toys, or make them at home. However, it's important to choose the most appropriate toys for your small dog to avoid injury.
For small and large dogs, choking on dog toys are a real concern. To avoid tragedy, never give a toy to your dog that could possibly be swallowed, or be able to be broken into smaller pieces and lodge in your dogs throat. For example, tennis balls have killed large dogs by getting lodged in the throat from catching the ball. However, tennis balls are large enough for small dogs to play with. Tennis balls and the larger, hard rubber balls are big enough to stay out of the throat of most small dogs, though you'll want to throw them away if they start falling apart.
Watch the condition of your dog toys, as older toys can become a hazard. For example, toys made from rope material are considered safe when they are new. However, over time, you may get fibers and threads that start coming apart. You, obviously, don't want your dog swallowing them. No matter how carefully constructed, most dog toys are capable of splitting or crumbling at some point, and being ingested by your dog. This poses two problems. Most dog toy materials are naturally not meant to be eaten, and some can cause digestive trouble. Worse, if the piece in question is sharp, it can even puncture the dog internally. So it makes sense to select non-toxic small dog toys that don't contain any brittle materials. The safest route is to stick to high quality latex and vinyl toys crafted specifically for use with dogs.
Kongs are a great choice for small dogs as they are virtually indestructible, and it's easy to find the perfect size for your small dog. Especially if your dog likes to play rough, and is hard on toys. Aggressive dogs need to be kept safe from toys with ribbons, or toys containing a squeaker, which can be chewed loose and pose a danger if swallowed.
Considering these guidelines will help you choose small dog toys with safety in mind.
For small and large dogs, choking on dog toys are a real concern. To avoid tragedy, never give a toy to your dog that could possibly be swallowed, or be able to be broken into smaller pieces and lodge in your dogs throat. For example, tennis balls have killed large dogs by getting lodged in the throat from catching the ball. However, tennis balls are large enough for small dogs to play with. Tennis balls and the larger, hard rubber balls are big enough to stay out of the throat of most small dogs, though you'll want to throw them away if they start falling apart.
Watch the condition of your dog toys, as older toys can become a hazard. For example, toys made from rope material are considered safe when they are new. However, over time, you may get fibers and threads that start coming apart. You, obviously, don't want your dog swallowing them. No matter how carefully constructed, most dog toys are capable of splitting or crumbling at some point, and being ingested by your dog. This poses two problems. Most dog toy materials are naturally not meant to be eaten, and some can cause digestive trouble. Worse, if the piece in question is sharp, it can even puncture the dog internally. So it makes sense to select non-toxic small dog toys that don't contain any brittle materials. The safest route is to stick to high quality latex and vinyl toys crafted specifically for use with dogs.
Kongs are a great choice for small dogs as they are virtually indestructible, and it's easy to find the perfect size for your small dog. Especially if your dog likes to play rough, and is hard on toys. Aggressive dogs need to be kept safe from toys with ribbons, or toys containing a squeaker, which can be chewed loose and pose a danger if swallowed.
Considering these guidelines will help you choose small dog toys with safety in mind.
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Dog laughing hysterically
For fun, here's a few unusual dog videos of dogs laughing. The first is of a dog laughing hysterically. However, the laughing sounds have been added. Somewhat creepy, but funny at the same time.
Another dog laughing...
Another dog laughing...
Monday, March 22, 2010
Teach your dog tricks
Would you like to teach your dog fun dog tricks?
Once your dog understands basic obedience including sit, stay, come -- you will be ready to go on to more complicated dog tricks. In this post, we're going to talk about begging, shaking hands, and shaking the head in a "no" gesture.
Teach your dog to beg
To train your dog to beg, it's best to start with your dog sitting in a corner of the room with his back to the wall and you standing in front of him. The reason for this is that your dog may raises his front legs off the floor, and the walls will help to support your dog should he lose balance.
Take a dog treat, holding it above your dog as you encourage him to reach up for it. When he takes the treat, praise him. Every time you do this, try holding the treat a little higher. You'll need to make sure that he is keeping his haunches on the ground. This is achieved by moving the food back over his head slightly making the dog shift his weight back over his haunches and teaching him to keep his balance.
Once the begging trick has been mastered in the corner of the room you can gradually begin to move away from the wall and practice the trick where the dog has no back support. You must expect at this stage that the dog will seem to go backwards in his learning, but this is to be expected until he can perfect it just using his own body weight.
Shaking hands
There are two parts of this trick for your dog to learn. A verbal part and a non-verbal part which both work together to give the dog a cue that you want him to perform the trick.
Firstly the dog should start off in a sitting position. Give him a single word verbal command such as ‘shake’, whilst at the same time reaching out with your right hand until it is just a few inches from your dogs’ right leg. Your outstretched hand is the non-verbal cue.
Initially your dog will probably just sit motionless unsure of what to do, so with your left hand, gently push or prod his right leg forwards until it rests in your right hand. When he has done this, praise him so that he knows he has done what you wanted him to do.
Practice this trick several times; praising after each successful result and gradually reducing the amount of left hand prompting until only the verbal and non-verbal cues are all that are needed.
Shaking the head: ‘No’
Before you can begin to teach this trick to your dog, you will need to find something which will make him shake his head naturally. Some things which may help are blowing gently on the ear, tickling the ear with a feather or even lightly attaching a paperclip to the ear – remembering that you should not cause the dog any pain.
Once you have found the method which makes him shake his head you will then have to decide on which verbal and non-verbal cue you want to use. A single word such as ‘head’ along with shrugging of your shoulders is just one idea.
Again your dog should start in a sitting position when first teaching him this trick. As in the shaking hands trick, use both cues together, along with the prod (tickling his ear, etc) in an effort to stimulate your dog to shake his head. Once he does, reward him, even if it is just a small movement.
This trick is best learned in short sessions with momentary breaks in between, so don’t try to repeat the exercise more that five times in one session or the dog will become confused and not learn.
Gradually reduce the amount of prodding so that all that are needed are the verbal and non-verbal cues. Once your dog has mastered the trick, he can be progressed to learn it in standing position and laying positions as well.
The main thing with training dogs to perform tricks is for the owner to learn that patience is a virtue and that the dog will learn in his own time. Do not scold the dog if he does not seem to be learning, it is always better to be patient and encourage him more.
Once your dog understands basic obedience including sit, stay, come -- you will be ready to go on to more complicated dog tricks. In this post, we're going to talk about begging, shaking hands, and shaking the head in a "no" gesture.
Teach your dog to beg
To train your dog to beg, it's best to start with your dog sitting in a corner of the room with his back to the wall and you standing in front of him. The reason for this is that your dog may raises his front legs off the floor, and the walls will help to support your dog should he lose balance.
Take a dog treat, holding it above your dog as you encourage him to reach up for it. When he takes the treat, praise him. Every time you do this, try holding the treat a little higher. You'll need to make sure that he is keeping his haunches on the ground. This is achieved by moving the food back over his head slightly making the dog shift his weight back over his haunches and teaching him to keep his balance.
Once the begging trick has been mastered in the corner of the room you can gradually begin to move away from the wall and practice the trick where the dog has no back support. You must expect at this stage that the dog will seem to go backwards in his learning, but this is to be expected until he can perfect it just using his own body weight.
Shaking hands
There are two parts of this trick for your dog to learn. A verbal part and a non-verbal part which both work together to give the dog a cue that you want him to perform the trick.
Firstly the dog should start off in a sitting position. Give him a single word verbal command such as ‘shake’, whilst at the same time reaching out with your right hand until it is just a few inches from your dogs’ right leg. Your outstretched hand is the non-verbal cue.
Initially your dog will probably just sit motionless unsure of what to do, so with your left hand, gently push or prod his right leg forwards until it rests in your right hand. When he has done this, praise him so that he knows he has done what you wanted him to do.
Practice this trick several times; praising after each successful result and gradually reducing the amount of left hand prompting until only the verbal and non-verbal cues are all that are needed.
Shaking the head: ‘No’
Before you can begin to teach this trick to your dog, you will need to find something which will make him shake his head naturally. Some things which may help are blowing gently on the ear, tickling the ear with a feather or even lightly attaching a paperclip to the ear – remembering that you should not cause the dog any pain.
Once you have found the method which makes him shake his head you will then have to decide on which verbal and non-verbal cue you want to use. A single word such as ‘head’ along with shrugging of your shoulders is just one idea.
Again your dog should start in a sitting position when first teaching him this trick. As in the shaking hands trick, use both cues together, along with the prod (tickling his ear, etc) in an effort to stimulate your dog to shake his head. Once he does, reward him, even if it is just a small movement.
This trick is best learned in short sessions with momentary breaks in between, so don’t try to repeat the exercise more that five times in one session or the dog will become confused and not learn.
Gradually reduce the amount of prodding so that all that are needed are the verbal and non-verbal cues. Once your dog has mastered the trick, he can be progressed to learn it in standing position and laying positions as well.
The main thing with training dogs to perform tricks is for the owner to learn that patience is a virtue and that the dog will learn in his own time. Do not scold the dog if he does not seem to be learning, it is always better to be patient and encourage him more.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
The threat of heartworm in dogs
Dog heartworm is a fairly common disease among canines in the United States, found in every state except Alaska. It was originally discovered in 1856, and is spread by mosquitoes. The parasitic type of roundworm lives mainly in your dog's heart and major blood vessels.
Heartworm will create gradual dysfunction within the heart, and even clog your dog's blood vessels. The most common symptoms seen with heartworm infestation include loss of weight, coughing, swelling (edema), inability to breath, heart problems, blurred sight, and eventually death.
One of the difficult aspects of heartworm disease is that it's often not diagnosed until in an advanced stage. This can be treated, especially if it's caught early. Early warning signs of heartworm infestation are as follows.
- Your once active dog becomes lethargic.
- You notice that your dog has difficulty breathing at times.
- Your dog coughs frequently.
- Your dog cannot run like he used to, and may even fall down after exertion.
- Your dog can't see as well, has unexplained seizures, or yellowing of eyes.
- Your dog begins to lose weight rapidly.
If your dog has any one of these symptoms, it's important to get him checked out by a veterinarian.
What causes heartworm in dogs?
Heartworm is caused by the bite of mosquitoes, typically sucking blood from the abdomen where less hair is present. What this means is that the risk of heartworm will be higher in areas with large amounts of mosquitoes.
Is heartworm infection treatable?
If it's caught at an early stage, it's likely your dog will make a full recovery. The problem is, as time goes by, the heartworms can do a lot of damage inside your dogs body. It's treated with chemical therapy, that kills the parasites. The treatment is usually completed in steps over a period of time. If you attempt to kill all the heartworms at once, the dead bodies may lodge in the lungs which would be fatal for your dog. The chemicals used to kill heartworms also come with risks, and your dog will need to be monitored closely by a veterinarian. Further, your veterinarian may recommend surgery as well.
Many veterinarians recommend heartworm preventative treatment drugs, especially in areas of high risk. It won't prevent your dog from getting heartworm, but it will attack the parasite in its early stages and stop the worms from becoming adults. Beginning the preventative medication will not work if your dog is already infested with heartworms.
In areas of high concentration of mosquitoes, you may want to seriously consider a heartworm preventative. Keeping your dog indoors, using a net or screen in sleeping quarters, and mosquito repellent helps to a degree. You can get blood tests to check for early symptoms of infection as well. In conclusion, watch for the early signs of heartworm and make sure to get regular exams.
Heartworm will create gradual dysfunction within the heart, and even clog your dog's blood vessels. The most common symptoms seen with heartworm infestation include loss of weight, coughing, swelling (edema), inability to breath, heart problems, blurred sight, and eventually death.
One of the difficult aspects of heartworm disease is that it's often not diagnosed until in an advanced stage. This can be treated, especially if it's caught early. Early warning signs of heartworm infestation are as follows.
- Your once active dog becomes lethargic.
- You notice that your dog has difficulty breathing at times.
- Your dog coughs frequently.
- Your dog cannot run like he used to, and may even fall down after exertion.
- Your dog can't see as well, has unexplained seizures, or yellowing of eyes.
- Your dog begins to lose weight rapidly.
If your dog has any one of these symptoms, it's important to get him checked out by a veterinarian.
What causes heartworm in dogs?
Heartworm is caused by the bite of mosquitoes, typically sucking blood from the abdomen where less hair is present. What this means is that the risk of heartworm will be higher in areas with large amounts of mosquitoes.
Is heartworm infection treatable?
If it's caught at an early stage, it's likely your dog will make a full recovery. The problem is, as time goes by, the heartworms can do a lot of damage inside your dogs body. It's treated with chemical therapy, that kills the parasites. The treatment is usually completed in steps over a period of time. If you attempt to kill all the heartworms at once, the dead bodies may lodge in the lungs which would be fatal for your dog. The chemicals used to kill heartworms also come with risks, and your dog will need to be monitored closely by a veterinarian. Further, your veterinarian may recommend surgery as well.
Many veterinarians recommend heartworm preventative treatment drugs, especially in areas of high risk. It won't prevent your dog from getting heartworm, but it will attack the parasite in its early stages and stop the worms from becoming adults. Beginning the preventative medication will not work if your dog is already infested with heartworms.
In areas of high concentration of mosquitoes, you may want to seriously consider a heartworm preventative. Keeping your dog indoors, using a net or screen in sleeping quarters, and mosquito repellent helps to a degree. You can get blood tests to check for early symptoms of infection as well. In conclusion, watch for the early signs of heartworm and make sure to get regular exams.
Collars: Dog's Neck and Spine
On one of my visits to my chiropractor, he suggested I pick up the book The Well Adjusted Dog by Dr. Daniel Kamen. The book is written by a chiropractor who also does adjustments on animals, although he doesn't advertise this. Apparently, chiropractors are not allowed to practice on animals in many states, which I didn't realize. However, what is good to know is that veterinarians in the U.S. are allowed to do adjustments on animals... that is if you can find one that's studied chiropractic medicine. Not an easy task.
In any case, Dr. Kamen wrote this book (among others) so that a dog owner could learn to do their own adjustments on their dogs. The book is very informative and walks you through the anatomy of a dog's spine, teaches you how to feel for misalignments and provides a variety of techniques that you can do at home. Many of the techniques focus on how to release tense muscles, especially if you're not comfortable with actually working on spinal column.
While reading the book, I came across a very interesting section which talks about dog collars and how they can easily cause neck problems for a dog. Most of it boils down to our (ie human's) improper handling of leash control on certain collars. Here's what Dr. Kamen has to say about dog collars:
"The improper use of collars is the number one cause of cervical (neck) subluxations in dogs. Of all the places to put undue stress, the cervical region, especially the upper two cervical vertebrae, is the most harmful. It is at this point that the body meets the brain." (Dr. Daniel Kamen, The Well Adjusted Dog, p. 24)
** What Types of Collars Are Available **
I thought I was doing well by using a dog harness. Ha! I quickly learned that this might actually be the cause of my dog's disc problems located where her neck meets her shoulders. I was even more surprised at what he said was the best collar to use.
Basically, you will find that there are five major types of collars in use by most dog owners: the regular flat nylon and leather collars, the choke collar, the prong collar, the leader or head collars, and the harness.
** Flat Collars **
The regular flat collars are what most dog owners often choose, however they can also be the most dangerous type. These collars are used for hanging your dog's tags and for simply attaching the leash to the metal loop. This collar type should never be used for dog training... nor should they be used if you have a hard time controlling your dog while out walking.
When frustrated, owners tend to pull back on the leash to stop the dog from pulling and running, or in many cases, to get them to move along if they've stopped to sniff something. This yanking will cause tremendous muscle tightening in the cervical neck area, which in turn results in cervical subluxations. This is one of the largest causes of disc and other neck problems in dogs. Unfortunately, most of these disc problems don't show up until much later in life. At this point, dog owners either put their dogs on medication for pain control and muscle relaxation or resort to surgery to try to repair the damage of degenerating discs.
** Leader Head Collars **
These appear to be an ideal way to train your dog. A leader collar fits over the head of your dog, much like a muzzle does. The leash attaches to a metal loop located on the collar under the dog’s chin. The idea behind it is to turn the dog’s head to “lead” them where you want to go. Sometimes humans may turn the head too sharply or too hard in frustration when trying to train their dog. This, like the regular collar, can cause upper neck problems.
** Choke Collars **
This is the type of collar most often used by dog trainers. The idea behind it is that if a dog pulls too much, it starts to choke and therefore will ease back and release the tension of the collar. In reality, the instinct of a dog when it feels the tightening of a chain is to pull away from it, effectively tightening the collar even more. Your dog could literally choke itself into a coma! Improperly trained dogs and more importantly, improperly trained owners, could cause extreme damage using a choke collar.
** Harness **
A harness is designed to fit over a dog's shoulders and be secured around the chest area. While a much better choice over a regular collar or a choke collar, these harnesses can cause subluxations in the lower neck, shoulder, chest, and foreleg area. Again, the primary cause to this is often attributed to frustrated owners yanking back on the leash, which causes the harness to put a large amount of stress on the shoulder and chest areas.
** Prong Collar **
This collar looks like some medieval torture device. Made of metal, the prong collar has a circular ring of spikes on its inner surface. When training the smallest amount of resistance distributes pressure evenly around the neck area effectively restraining the dog. As Dr. Kamen states in his book: "Some trainers liken the prong collar to "power steering" where even the slightest touch will produce the desired result." He has found that dog's that use this particular collar have far less upper cervical subluxations than with any other collar type. So in essence, this is actually the best collar to use when training and walking your dog, believe it or not.
** What Else May Cause Cervical Subluxations in Dogs? **
There are many other issues that can also cause problems with cervical subluxations. The requirements of how dog's are trained (taught to sit on the left and look up at the owner causes neck strain) is one area of concern. Mismatching dog size to dog owner size, dog obesity, improper bedding, dangerous play practices, leash length, and the way certain dogs are bred, are a few of the other causes of canine neck problems.
Of course, you would be hard pressed to monitor every move your dog makes. Perhaps he likes sleeping on the hardwood floor near the fire rather than the comfy dog mat you bought. Maybe you played a little too hard today with the Frisbee and caused your dog to jump too high, causing neck pain. The important thing is to try to correct possible activities that could cause neck subluxations in your pet so they don't continue to do more damage. You may also want to pick up the book - The Well Adjusted Dog - and learn how you can check for possible misalignments in your dog's neck and spine, then learn how to do some of the corrections yourself. By doing so, you'll be giving your dog a much happier and less painful life.
In any case, Dr. Kamen wrote this book (among others) so that a dog owner could learn to do their own adjustments on their dogs. The book is very informative and walks you through the anatomy of a dog's spine, teaches you how to feel for misalignments and provides a variety of techniques that you can do at home. Many of the techniques focus on how to release tense muscles, especially if you're not comfortable with actually working on spinal column.
While reading the book, I came across a very interesting section which talks about dog collars and how they can easily cause neck problems for a dog. Most of it boils down to our (ie human's) improper handling of leash control on certain collars. Here's what Dr. Kamen has to say about dog collars:
"The improper use of collars is the number one cause of cervical (neck) subluxations in dogs. Of all the places to put undue stress, the cervical region, especially the upper two cervical vertebrae, is the most harmful. It is at this point that the body meets the brain." (Dr. Daniel Kamen, The Well Adjusted Dog, p. 24)
** What Types of Collars Are Available **
I thought I was doing well by using a dog harness. Ha! I quickly learned that this might actually be the cause of my dog's disc problems located where her neck meets her shoulders. I was even more surprised at what he said was the best collar to use.
Basically, you will find that there are five major types of collars in use by most dog owners: the regular flat nylon and leather collars, the choke collar, the prong collar, the leader or head collars, and the harness.
** Flat Collars **
The regular flat collars are what most dog owners often choose, however they can also be the most dangerous type. These collars are used for hanging your dog's tags and for simply attaching the leash to the metal loop. This collar type should never be used for dog training... nor should they be used if you have a hard time controlling your dog while out walking.
When frustrated, owners tend to pull back on the leash to stop the dog from pulling and running, or in many cases, to get them to move along if they've stopped to sniff something. This yanking will cause tremendous muscle tightening in the cervical neck area, which in turn results in cervical subluxations. This is one of the largest causes of disc and other neck problems in dogs. Unfortunately, most of these disc problems don't show up until much later in life. At this point, dog owners either put their dogs on medication for pain control and muscle relaxation or resort to surgery to try to repair the damage of degenerating discs.
** Leader Head Collars **
These appear to be an ideal way to train your dog. A leader collar fits over the head of your dog, much like a muzzle does. The leash attaches to a metal loop located on the collar under the dog’s chin. The idea behind it is to turn the dog’s head to “lead” them where you want to go. Sometimes humans may turn the head too sharply or too hard in frustration when trying to train their dog. This, like the regular collar, can cause upper neck problems.
** Choke Collars **
This is the type of collar most often used by dog trainers. The idea behind it is that if a dog pulls too much, it starts to choke and therefore will ease back and release the tension of the collar. In reality, the instinct of a dog when it feels the tightening of a chain is to pull away from it, effectively tightening the collar even more. Your dog could literally choke itself into a coma! Improperly trained dogs and more importantly, improperly trained owners, could cause extreme damage using a choke collar.
** Harness **
A harness is designed to fit over a dog's shoulders and be secured around the chest area. While a much better choice over a regular collar or a choke collar, these harnesses can cause subluxations in the lower neck, shoulder, chest, and foreleg area. Again, the primary cause to this is often attributed to frustrated owners yanking back on the leash, which causes the harness to put a large amount of stress on the shoulder and chest areas.
** Prong Collar **
This collar looks like some medieval torture device. Made of metal, the prong collar has a circular ring of spikes on its inner surface. When training the smallest amount of resistance distributes pressure evenly around the neck area effectively restraining the dog. As Dr. Kamen states in his book: "Some trainers liken the prong collar to "power steering" where even the slightest touch will produce the desired result." He has found that dog's that use this particular collar have far less upper cervical subluxations than with any other collar type. So in essence, this is actually the best collar to use when training and walking your dog, believe it or not.
** What Else May Cause Cervical Subluxations in Dogs? **
There are many other issues that can also cause problems with cervical subluxations. The requirements of how dog's are trained (taught to sit on the left and look up at the owner causes neck strain) is one area of concern. Mismatching dog size to dog owner size, dog obesity, improper bedding, dangerous play practices, leash length, and the way certain dogs are bred, are a few of the other causes of canine neck problems.
Of course, you would be hard pressed to monitor every move your dog makes. Perhaps he likes sleeping on the hardwood floor near the fire rather than the comfy dog mat you bought. Maybe you played a little too hard today with the Frisbee and caused your dog to jump too high, causing neck pain. The important thing is to try to correct possible activities that could cause neck subluxations in your pet so they don't continue to do more damage. You may also want to pick up the book - The Well Adjusted Dog - and learn how you can check for possible misalignments in your dog's neck and spine, then learn how to do some of the corrections yourself. By doing so, you'll be giving your dog a much happier and less painful life.
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Are chew treats dangerous for dogs?
Your dog enjoys getting a chew treat, and can be happily occupied for hours. You want to reward your dog. You've been told how great dog chews are for your dogs teeth. Sounds great, right? You might assume that because a product is on the market, it should be extremely safe to give to your dog. Unfortunately, that does not always seem to be the case. It's important to be a careful consumer, especially when it comes to pet products.
Case in point, rawhide chew treats reportedly have the potential to harm and even kill your dog. When your dog is chewing rawhide, it becomes sticky, wet, and gummy. It's difficult, if not impossible to digest, conforms to tubular organs, and can block the digestive tract when swallowed in large pieces. Further, rawhide chew treats can be an immediate choking hazard as well. Rawhide dog chew treats may also come from unregulated countries that treat the rawhide dog chew with arsenic! It's certainly true that many dog treats, and dog toys come with inherent risks. In the case of rawhide though, it's my opinion that the risks far outweigh the benefits.
Rawhide dog chews are not the only potentially dangerous treat out there. What about reports of dogs choking on Nylabones? A few years ago, there were many reports of safety concerns regarding Greenies which were made with a compressed vegetable protein. The results were similar with rawhide, in that they block the digestive tract. Intestinal blockages can kill your dog in hours. It can cause a condition called intestinal strangulation which is when blood flow is cut off to the intestines, the intestinal tissue then begins to die and rot. According to what I've read recently, Greenies has now changed the formulation, but I'm still leery.
You may have given these types of chew treats to your dog for many years without any negative consequences. It's a judgment call that every dog pawrent should consider. The point is, we need to be careful, and not assume governmental agencies are carefully regulating pet products on the market. It's up to pet owners to read the label, read the ingredients, trust your common sense, and research safety. If you do continue to give rawhide dog chews to your dog, you must keep a close eye on them while chewing, and take it away when the piece is small enough to be swallowed. The only treatment for an intestinal blockage from rawhide dog treats is surgery.
Case in point, rawhide chew treats reportedly have the potential to harm and even kill your dog. When your dog is chewing rawhide, it becomes sticky, wet, and gummy. It's difficult, if not impossible to digest, conforms to tubular organs, and can block the digestive tract when swallowed in large pieces. Further, rawhide chew treats can be an immediate choking hazard as well. Rawhide dog chew treats may also come from unregulated countries that treat the rawhide dog chew with arsenic! It's certainly true that many dog treats, and dog toys come with inherent risks. In the case of rawhide though, it's my opinion that the risks far outweigh the benefits.
Rawhide dog chews are not the only potentially dangerous treat out there. What about reports of dogs choking on Nylabones? A few years ago, there were many reports of safety concerns regarding Greenies which were made with a compressed vegetable protein. The results were similar with rawhide, in that they block the digestive tract. Intestinal blockages can kill your dog in hours. It can cause a condition called intestinal strangulation which is when blood flow is cut off to the intestines, the intestinal tissue then begins to die and rot. According to what I've read recently, Greenies has now changed the formulation, but I'm still leery.
You may have given these types of chew treats to your dog for many years without any negative consequences. It's a judgment call that every dog pawrent should consider. The point is, we need to be careful, and not assume governmental agencies are carefully regulating pet products on the market. It's up to pet owners to read the label, read the ingredients, trust your common sense, and research safety. If you do continue to give rawhide dog chews to your dog, you must keep a close eye on them while chewing, and take it away when the piece is small enough to be swallowed. The only treatment for an intestinal blockage from rawhide dog treats is surgery.
Monday, March 15, 2010
Diabetes in dogs
The early warning sign of diabetes in dogs include lack of energy, vision problems and cataracts, lack of coordination, incontinence, throwing up, and drinking large amounts of water. With Diabetes mellitus in dogs there are two varieties, type 1 and type 2 -- with most dogs suffering from type 1. Approximately, 1 out of 400 dogs will have diabetes, and it's regulated normally with insulin injections and diet modification.
After diabetes is diagnosed with blood test or glucose test strip, the next step is to attempt to regulate the sugar level in the blood. If you don't want to take your dog to the veterinarian every day, you should learn to use a blood glucose meter. This is the same meter human diabetics use to take a drop of blood and test it. Though it's not pleasant, it's probably less traumatic than taking your pet to the vet for a blood draw. If you cannot bear to do the blood testing, urine samples may be an alternative but are not quite as accurate.
Once you determine the proper amounts of insulin, your dog will go back to his frisky personality. Your dog may require insulin for the rest of his life, but at least it will buy years that he might not otherwise have. Dogs with diabetes left untreated have a poor prognosis. A special diet, proper amounts of insulin and regular exercise can make all the difference. For many, the hardest part is getting through the steps necessary after initial diagnosis.
When you first discover your dog has diabetes, it's normal to feel a little overwhelmed. Diabetes is a treatable condition, with proper instruction and guidance, your dog will be feeling better soon.
Edit: Wanted to add in a reader's comment from Tom, at Daffy's Pet Soup Kitchen. It turns out that Daffy unfortunately, has personal experience dealing with diabetes. A money saving tip is that many dogs can use insulin intended for humans, which may actually be less expensive. You can talk to your veterinarian about that, and he/she can help you adjust the dosages. In addition, Walgreen's has a drug prescription plan that will provide people meds for pets, for somewhere around $4 a month. Yes, the Walgreen's plan covers prescriptions for pets too! You just have to make sure it's a drug they normally stock, and insulin normally intended for humans would probably be one they carry. This may save you a significant amount of money if you have a diabetic dog.
After diabetes is diagnosed with blood test or glucose test strip, the next step is to attempt to regulate the sugar level in the blood. If you don't want to take your dog to the veterinarian every day, you should learn to use a blood glucose meter. This is the same meter human diabetics use to take a drop of blood and test it. Though it's not pleasant, it's probably less traumatic than taking your pet to the vet for a blood draw. If you cannot bear to do the blood testing, urine samples may be an alternative but are not quite as accurate.
Once you determine the proper amounts of insulin, your dog will go back to his frisky personality. Your dog may require insulin for the rest of his life, but at least it will buy years that he might not otherwise have. Dogs with diabetes left untreated have a poor prognosis. A special diet, proper amounts of insulin and regular exercise can make all the difference. For many, the hardest part is getting through the steps necessary after initial diagnosis.
When you first discover your dog has diabetes, it's normal to feel a little overwhelmed. Diabetes is a treatable condition, with proper instruction and guidance, your dog will be feeling better soon.
Edit: Wanted to add in a reader's comment from Tom, at Daffy's Pet Soup Kitchen. It turns out that Daffy unfortunately, has personal experience dealing with diabetes. A money saving tip is that many dogs can use insulin intended for humans, which may actually be less expensive. You can talk to your veterinarian about that, and he/she can help you adjust the dosages. In addition, Walgreen's has a drug prescription plan that will provide people meds for pets, for somewhere around $4 a month. Yes, the Walgreen's plan covers prescriptions for pets too! You just have to make sure it's a drug they normally stock, and insulin normally intended for humans would probably be one they carry. This may save you a significant amount of money if you have a diabetic dog.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Belgian Laekenois Rare Belgian Sheepdog
The Belgian Laekenois is the rarest of four Belgian Sheepdogs. This medium sized breed weighs between 50-65 pounds and reaches between 22" to 26" in height. Their name is pronounced LAK-in-wah. The Belgian Laekenois is the rarest of four Belgian Sheepdogs. Bred to herd sheep, this breed remains a working breed today.
The AKC recognizes three of the Belgian Sheepdogs but does not recognize the Belgian Laekenois. Their color ranges from red to fawn and mahogany to gray. They may or may not have a dark masking on their face. Their harsh, rough, wiry coat is over 2" in length and gives them an unkempt or tousled appearance. Their coat is waterproofed and they should not be bathed on a regular basis. They only require minimal grooming and should never be clipped to closely.
This energetic, protective and intelligent breed is more of a working dog than family companion. The Belgian Laekenois loves to work and is happiest when they have a job to do. They are excellent farm dogs, herding dogs and watchdogs. They can also make an good family pets for active families. The Belgian Laekenois has an abundance of energy and loves to be on the go. They are not meant to be indoors all day and are happiest when they have plenty of room to run and play. Early socialization is a must for other pets, dogs and children. Early training is also recommended. They have a herding instinct and will herd family and pets alike.
The Belgian Laekenois originated in Belgium. It is one of four Belgian Sheepdogs. They are often recognized as distinct breeds, but in some countries they are actually all considered to be one breed. Originally bred to watch over linen bleaching fields, they were later used to watch over sheep. They are now used for herding and as guard dogs.
Work, work and more work is the Belgian Laekenois' motto. They love to have a job to do and are not a lazy breed by any means. To have a happy Belgian Laekenois, they need a family that will recognize their energy level and work instinct and make sure that both those needs are met. If you are a family that likes to relax inside all the time, then the Belgian Laekenois is probably not for you.
Friday, March 12, 2010
What to consider before adopting a dog
The last thing I would want to do is talk anyone out of adopting a dog. Our shelters are full of homeless dogs in desperate need of a good home. However, there are a few things to consider before taking Fido home.
1. Do you have time to take care of a dog?
Dogs are social animals, and crave attention. If you work 9-5, it doesn't mean that you can't provide a good home. It just makes it a little more difficult. You'll know your dog is waiting for you, and will be very excited when you get home. Even though you may be tired, your dog should be able to expect to play, go for a walk, and special attention when you get home. At times, you may need to reject outside social activities, so that you do not leave your dog feeling neglected.
2. What are your plans for the holidays?
If you have a dog, the best holiday plan is home sweet home. If that's not practical, you'll need to be prepared. If you travel a distance to celebrate holidays with family, what about your dog? Sadly, more dogs are destroyed during the holidays than any other time. You need to consider ahead of time if you can bring your dog, whether you have a reliable friend to look after him, or if you will need to place him in a kennel during this time.
3. Are you able to afford a dog?
Your dog will require nutritious dog food. He will need things like a collar, leash, food and water bowls. If your dog becomes infected with fleas or ticks, he'll need treatment. Your dog needs comfortable shelter, preferably inside. If you cannot keep your dog inside, they will need a dog house and fenced yard. Your dog will need vaccinations, and they city you live in may require a license. Dental cleanings may be necessary. If your dog becomes ill, you may need to take him to the veterinarian.
4. Are you able to exercise your dog?
There was a story about an elderly gentlemen who was physically unable to keep up with his dog on regular walks. Apparently, this man was a creative solutions type. He bought a used treadmill, and trained his dog to use it. In that way, he could cut down on the amount of walking for him, and still provide adequate exercise for his dog. Dogs need to exercise, even during rain, sleet, and snow. It might be a walk, a run in the park, or playing ball. If you're not very active, consider providing a home to an elderly dog, as their exercise requirements will be less.
5. Is your family ready for a dog?
If you have a family member that adamantly does NOT want a dog, it might be better to wait. Especially, if there is any chance they may mistreat the dog. Another problematic scenario, is if you have small children. They may unintentionally injure a small dog. Further, there are kids that are cruel to dogs because they, sadly, have never learned kindness to animals. A dog is not a toy. Wait until the children are older and a little more responsible.
6. Will you be able to spend time or money for grooming?
Every dog requires grooming to some extent, but certain breeds will require more. It may just be a weekly brushing, and a bath every so often. It might be a trip to the beauty parlor every two months for a new hair do. It depends on what breed you adopt. You can pay someone to do it, or you can do it yourself. Be prepared to spend time or money.
This list is not to discourage anyone from adopting a dog. The benefits of have a dog around, far outweigh the responsibilities. These are just things to consider beforehand.
1. Do you have time to take care of a dog?
Dogs are social animals, and crave attention. If you work 9-5, it doesn't mean that you can't provide a good home. It just makes it a little more difficult. You'll know your dog is waiting for you, and will be very excited when you get home. Even though you may be tired, your dog should be able to expect to play, go for a walk, and special attention when you get home. At times, you may need to reject outside social activities, so that you do not leave your dog feeling neglected.
2. What are your plans for the holidays?
If you have a dog, the best holiday plan is home sweet home. If that's not practical, you'll need to be prepared. If you travel a distance to celebrate holidays with family, what about your dog? Sadly, more dogs are destroyed during the holidays than any other time. You need to consider ahead of time if you can bring your dog, whether you have a reliable friend to look after him, or if you will need to place him in a kennel during this time.
3. Are you able to afford a dog?
Your dog will require nutritious dog food. He will need things like a collar, leash, food and water bowls. If your dog becomes infected with fleas or ticks, he'll need treatment. Your dog needs comfortable shelter, preferably inside. If you cannot keep your dog inside, they will need a dog house and fenced yard. Your dog will need vaccinations, and they city you live in may require a license. Dental cleanings may be necessary. If your dog becomes ill, you may need to take him to the veterinarian.
4. Are you able to exercise your dog?
There was a story about an elderly gentlemen who was physically unable to keep up with his dog on regular walks. Apparently, this man was a creative solutions type. He bought a used treadmill, and trained his dog to use it. In that way, he could cut down on the amount of walking for him, and still provide adequate exercise for his dog. Dogs need to exercise, even during rain, sleet, and snow. It might be a walk, a run in the park, or playing ball. If you're not very active, consider providing a home to an elderly dog, as their exercise requirements will be less.
5. Is your family ready for a dog?
If you have a family member that adamantly does NOT want a dog, it might be better to wait. Especially, if there is any chance they may mistreat the dog. Another problematic scenario, is if you have small children. They may unintentionally injure a small dog. Further, there are kids that are cruel to dogs because they, sadly, have never learned kindness to animals. A dog is not a toy. Wait until the children are older and a little more responsible.
6. Will you be able to spend time or money for grooming?
Every dog requires grooming to some extent, but certain breeds will require more. It may just be a weekly brushing, and a bath every so often. It might be a trip to the beauty parlor every two months for a new hair do. It depends on what breed you adopt. You can pay someone to do it, or you can do it yourself. Be prepared to spend time or money.
This list is not to discourage anyone from adopting a dog. The benefits of have a dog around, far outweigh the responsibilities. These are just things to consider beforehand.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Dogs that are good with kids
If you are looking for a dog that is good with kids, you should pay close attention to disposition, energy level, and size of the dog. In this article, you'll find information about certain breeds considered to be "family" friendly. It's important to keep in mind that your child needs to be at least as well behaved as you expect the dog to be.
In other words, it's unacceptable to allow your child to tease the dog, pull the dogs ears, poke the dog, and so forth. You want a dog with a naturally friendly disposition, but you should never abuse that disposition by allowing your child to mistreat the dog. They may require constant supervision until you are absolutely certain they will both "play nice."
In case your child on occasion fails to pick up on the dog's cue to back off, you'll want a dog with a happy, patient, gentle disposition. Energy level is important as well, you don't want a low energy dog with a high energy kid, or visa versa. Size does matter. If the dog is too small, it could be easily injured in a game of rough house. On the other hand, a dog too large may have a habit of accidentally knocking your kid over. The following is a list of breeds that are considered to be good with kids. Obviously, this is generally speaking, and there are always exceptions to the rule.
Beagle: Sadly, this breed of dog is used frequently in animal research because of their gentle, cooperative nature. These are sweet dogs, and make a perfect loyal family pet. Beagles are usually black and tan, and weigh 40-59 lbs. as adults.
Bassett Hound: I have a relative with children, and three Bassett Hounds. They are loving, playful, and excellent with kids. They are usually black and tan, and will grow to about 50-65 lbs.
Cairn Terrier: This breed is known to be gentle, and great with kids. They do not shed much, and are small dogs weighing in at only 13-25 lbs. full grown.
Cocker Spaniel: This list would not be complete without the Cocker Spaniel. Extremely popular family dog, as they are great with children. An adult Cocker Spaniel will weigh in at about 13 to 30 lbs.
Dachshund: I've had bad luck with Dachshunds. In my lifetime, I've met three. None of them liked me. I'm still listing them here, as many Dachshund pawrents swear they are the best family dogs that ever existed. I've been told they are good with kids. Approximate size: 16 to 32 lbs.
Golden Retriever: Who doesn't love Golden Retrievers? Extremely gentle, intelligent dogs with a reputation for being excellent with kids. They will love to go for walks, play ball, and are easy to train. will grow to about 65 to 75 lbs.
Labrador Retriever: When I grew up, we had a 3/4 Black Lab mixed with 1/4 German Shepherd. I'll never forget "Grace" she was my best friend in the world. Smart dogs, great with kids. Black Labs weigh in at about 60 to 75 lbs. upon maturity.
Pug: This is a small dog of about 14 to 18 lbs.. known to be gentle with kids. Sheds copious amounts, usually seasonally.
I've tried to list many dog breeds that are regarded as being good with kids. Undoubtedly, I've left some breeds out that would make excellent family dogs. While breed may give an indication, it can never be a guarantee.
In other words, it's unacceptable to allow your child to tease the dog, pull the dogs ears, poke the dog, and so forth. You want a dog with a naturally friendly disposition, but you should never abuse that disposition by allowing your child to mistreat the dog. They may require constant supervision until you are absolutely certain they will both "play nice."
In case your child on occasion fails to pick up on the dog's cue to back off, you'll want a dog with a happy, patient, gentle disposition. Energy level is important as well, you don't want a low energy dog with a high energy kid, or visa versa. Size does matter. If the dog is too small, it could be easily injured in a game of rough house. On the other hand, a dog too large may have a habit of accidentally knocking your kid over. The following is a list of breeds that are considered to be good with kids. Obviously, this is generally speaking, and there are always exceptions to the rule.
Beagle: Sadly, this breed of dog is used frequently in animal research because of their gentle, cooperative nature. These are sweet dogs, and make a perfect loyal family pet. Beagles are usually black and tan, and weigh 40-59 lbs. as adults.
Bassett Hound: I have a relative with children, and three Bassett Hounds. They are loving, playful, and excellent with kids. They are usually black and tan, and will grow to about 50-65 lbs.
Cairn Terrier: This breed is known to be gentle, and great with kids. They do not shed much, and are small dogs weighing in at only 13-25 lbs. full grown.
Cocker Spaniel: This list would not be complete without the Cocker Spaniel. Extremely popular family dog, as they are great with children. An adult Cocker Spaniel will weigh in at about 13 to 30 lbs.
Dachshund: I've had bad luck with Dachshunds. In my lifetime, I've met three. None of them liked me. I'm still listing them here, as many Dachshund pawrents swear they are the best family dogs that ever existed. I've been told they are good with kids. Approximate size: 16 to 32 lbs.
Golden Retriever: Who doesn't love Golden Retrievers? Extremely gentle, intelligent dogs with a reputation for being excellent with kids. They will love to go for walks, play ball, and are easy to train. will grow to about 65 to 75 lbs.
Labrador Retriever: When I grew up, we had a 3/4 Black Lab mixed with 1/4 German Shepherd. I'll never forget "Grace" she was my best friend in the world. Smart dogs, great with kids. Black Labs weigh in at about 60 to 75 lbs. upon maturity.
Pug: This is a small dog of about 14 to 18 lbs.. known to be gentle with kids. Sheds copious amounts, usually seasonally.
I've tried to list many dog breeds that are regarded as being good with kids. Undoubtedly, I've left some breeds out that would make excellent family dogs. While breed may give an indication, it can never be a guarantee.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Grooming Your Dog
Grooming your dog is a responsibility best incorporated into your daily routine. Whether you have a Poodle or Rottweiler, your dog is going to require a certain level of grooming. This includes brushing your dog's teeth, checking for fleas, bathing, and cleaning out the ears.
It's the best practice to get your dog used to all of these grooming activities when he's still a puppy. If you wait until adulthood, your dog may be anxious or fearful from grooming. As far as giving your dog a bath, there is no set timetable on when to do this. You will probably know when it's time. If they are dirty, itching, or have fleas it's probably time.
Dental care for your dog
Veterinarians will usually recommend brushing the teeth about twice a week. If you maintain the dental care of your dog on a regular basis, it may make professional dental cleanings unnecessary. You can actually buy a toothbrush and toothpaste designed especially for dogs. The toothpaste will typically have a meat flavor that is pleasing to your dogs taste buds. If your dog is not going to cooperate, you could also try a thin washcloth moistened with warm water. Brush up and down the length of canine teeth, and in small circles around the molars.
Checking for fleas and ticks
Fleas can be difficult to detect at times, especially if your dog has a thick undercoat. If you part each section of your dog's hair with a flea comb you may spot one, you can also inspect the hair for signs of "flea dirt" that looks like pepper. If your dog is itching frequently, there is a good possibility fleas are the culprit. Ticks are larger and easier to spot. They like to hide in or around the ears, under the collar, on your dog’s belly, as long as they are buried in the fur. To remove a tick, carefully pull it off by its head.
Cleaning your dog's ears
A black crusty buildup in your dog's ear is usually ear mites. You can create a solution of olive oil and Vitamin E, and warm it up to body temperature. Using a dropper, massage it into the ear canal for about a minute. Then, wipe the ear with a cotton swab to get off the extra oil. For regular maintenance, you can make a solution of 1 part vinegar to 2 parts water. Use a cotton swab to clean your dog's ears.
Grooming your dog can be enjoyable and pleasant for your dog, as long as you are gentle. Your dog may even start to look forward to grooming sessions, and will certainly feel great afterwards.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
What do flea bites look like?
It's starting to get warmer, flea season is approaching. These critters have a way of making your dog's life (and yours) miserable. What do flea bites look like? On a human, they look something like this:
You can fight back! There are many ways to keep the fleas away this summer. The best cure is prevention and natural ways to repel fleas. You can vacuum frequently to stop them from taking hold in your home. Was your dogs bed frequently, give your dog a bath regularly, and sprinkle a bit of brewer's yeast in his food.
Natural flea repellents:
* Marigolds are known to repel fleas, plant them outdoors.
* Boil orange and lemon peels in water and use the solution as a pre-soak for dog bedding, or as a dip for your dog.
You may know what do flea bites look like, but do you know the signs of fleas? In the picture below it shows what's known as "flea dirt." To be specific, this is not dirt. It's your dog's blood consumed by the flea and passed as feces. Gross, huh?
If the flea problem gets that bad, natural remedies may not work. There are pesticide flea products you can use, but it's important to research them first. The manufacturers claim they are safe, but common sense dictates placing pesticides on your dogs skin, may have detrimental effects over the long term. I've used both Advantage and Frontline at different times, but never on a continuous basis.
Advantage. Advantage is a spot on flea and tick killer, and lasts for about a month. In my opinion, it's not terribly effective on fleas, but it's excellent in killing ticks. The main ingredient is imidacloprid, which effects the nervous system of the flea.
Frontline. Frontline is advertised as a flea and tick killer, but in my experience, it wasn't helpful with ticks at all. I actually called Frontline customer service. They told me that the only way it could kill a tick is if it first sucks the blood of your dog. If you've got a tick problem, get Advantage instead. For fleas though, Frontline is awesome. The main ingredients of Frontline are: Fipronil 5-amino -1- (2, 6-dichloro-4 [trifluoromethyl]phenyl) -4- (1,R,S)- (trifluoromethyl0sulfinyl) -1H-pryazole-3-carbonitrile 0.29% inert ingredients 99.71%.
Biospot. Biospot is another spot on type treatment applied to the nape of the neck. It's not nearly as effective as Frontline or Advantix. I've tried the "natural" version of Biospot and it made my dog have a strong smell of peppermint. In my case, it seemed to have no effect whatsoever on fleas. The main ingredients are permethrins and IGR.
Proban and Prospot. Proban (cythioate) and Prospot (Fenthion) products are supposed to kill fleas, and they work by getting in the blood stream. The major downfall for these is that they won't repel fleas at all, it will only kill the flea if it's actually sucking your dogs blood. Obviously, it's preferable to get rid of the fleas before they bite your dog, not just afterwards. Therefore, your dog would still be suffering from flea bite allergies, scrating, and itching.
It helps to know the signs of flea infestation, what do flea bites look like, and products you can use to fight fleas this summer.
You can fight back! There are many ways to keep the fleas away this summer. The best cure is prevention and natural ways to repel fleas. You can vacuum frequently to stop them from taking hold in your home. Was your dogs bed frequently, give your dog a bath regularly, and sprinkle a bit of brewer's yeast in his food.
Natural flea repellents:
* Marigolds are known to repel fleas, plant them outdoors.
* Boil orange and lemon peels in water and use the solution as a pre-soak for dog bedding, or as a dip for your dog.
You may know what do flea bites look like, but do you know the signs of fleas? In the picture below it shows what's known as "flea dirt." To be specific, this is not dirt. It's your dog's blood consumed by the flea and passed as feces. Gross, huh?
If the flea problem gets that bad, natural remedies may not work. There are pesticide flea products you can use, but it's important to research them first. The manufacturers claim they are safe, but common sense dictates placing pesticides on your dogs skin, may have detrimental effects over the long term. I've used both Advantage and Frontline at different times, but never on a continuous basis.
Advantage. Advantage is a spot on flea and tick killer, and lasts for about a month. In my opinion, it's not terribly effective on fleas, but it's excellent in killing ticks. The main ingredient is imidacloprid, which effects the nervous system of the flea.
Frontline. Frontline is advertised as a flea and tick killer, but in my experience, it wasn't helpful with ticks at all. I actually called Frontline customer service. They told me that the only way it could kill a tick is if it first sucks the blood of your dog. If you've got a tick problem, get Advantage instead. For fleas though, Frontline is awesome. The main ingredients of Frontline are: Fipronil 5-amino -1- (2, 6-dichloro-4 [trifluoromethyl]phenyl) -4- (1,R,S)- (trifluoromethyl0sulfinyl) -1H-pryazole-3-carbonitrile 0.29% inert ingredients 99.71%.
Biospot. Biospot is another spot on type treatment applied to the nape of the neck. It's not nearly as effective as Frontline or Advantix. I've tried the "natural" version of Biospot and it made my dog have a strong smell of peppermint. In my case, it seemed to have no effect whatsoever on fleas. The main ingredients are permethrins and IGR.
Proban and Prospot. Proban (cythioate) and Prospot (Fenthion) products are supposed to kill fleas, and they work by getting in the blood stream. The major downfall for these is that they won't repel fleas at all, it will only kill the flea if it's actually sucking your dogs blood. Obviously, it's preferable to get rid of the fleas before they bite your dog, not just afterwards. Therefore, your dog would still be suffering from flea bite allergies, scrating, and itching.
It helps to know the signs of flea infestation, what do flea bites look like, and products you can use to fight fleas this summer.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Positive reinforcement dog training
Positive reinforcement dog training is a happy experience for your dog, and it actually works. It's so highly effective that it's the training method of choice in the television and movie industry. Instead of using punishment as a teaching tool, positive reinforcement dog training uses rewards.
Dog treats are wonderful, but the reward doesn't always need to be food. It could be verbal praise, a back rub, a scratch behind the ears, and a pat on the head. Praise, acceptance, approval are the greatest rewards, as dogs are constantly craving your undivided attention. Consider for one moment, what would happen if your dog only got attention after doing something "bad." Strange as it may sound, they'll probably keep repeating it. Why wouldn't they, if that's the only way to get attention?
Dogs are extremely social animals that enjoy interacting with you. Don't force them to do something "bad" to get your attention. Effective dog training would be to consistently reinforce "good" behavior with praise and attention. Positive reinforcement dog training is a way to form a stronger bond, and build trust. While this method should work well with all dogs, it can be especially beneficial for dogs that have been mistreated in the past. It builds them up, gives them confidence. It will also help them to trust in you, knowing you're not going to hurt them.
Whatever type of dog you are training, there is a good chance positive reinforcement training can help. Having a well behaved dog isn't all about being the alpha leader, dominating, and intimidation, but about respect, kindness, praise, and trust.
Dog treats are wonderful, but the reward doesn't always need to be food. It could be verbal praise, a back rub, a scratch behind the ears, and a pat on the head. Praise, acceptance, approval are the greatest rewards, as dogs are constantly craving your undivided attention. Consider for one moment, what would happen if your dog only got attention after doing something "bad." Strange as it may sound, they'll probably keep repeating it. Why wouldn't they, if that's the only way to get attention?
Dogs are extremely social animals that enjoy interacting with you. Don't force them to do something "bad" to get your attention. Effective dog training would be to consistently reinforce "good" behavior with praise and attention. Positive reinforcement dog training is a way to form a stronger bond, and build trust. While this method should work well with all dogs, it can be especially beneficial for dogs that have been mistreated in the past. It builds them up, gives them confidence. It will also help them to trust in you, knowing you're not going to hurt them.
Whatever type of dog you are training, there is a good chance positive reinforcement training can help. Having a well behaved dog isn't all about being the alpha leader, dominating, and intimidation, but about respect, kindness, praise, and trust.
Monday, March 1, 2010
Rules of how to treat your dog with respect
With dog training, there seems to be two common approaches. One in which you pretend to be an alpha leader wolf, which often involves a level of domination, intimidation, and punishment. I'm not a fan of this approach, and many dog experts are now saying it's outdated, ineffectual, and can be damaging for your dog's psych. Of course, the other method is positive training where dogs learn from praise and encouragement.
If you need to train your dog, look into positive dog training. No matter what approach you use to train your dog, there are certain ways a dog should NEVER be treated. Abusive treatment of dogs seems to occur more frequently with old fashioned training methods. That's why I've decided to create this list that specifically states how dogs should not be treated.
1. Never punish your dog when you are angry.
2. Never hit your dog, or whip him with the leash.
3. Never grab your dog from behind, or sneak up on him.
4. If your dog is not a fast learner, never assume your dog is stupid.
5. Never call your dog over to punish him, he may not want to come next time.
6. Never tease or trick your dog, treat your dog with respect.
7. Never step on your dogs paws, twist his ears, or hit him. If a dog trainer asks you to do this, find another dog trainer.
8. Never grab your dog roughly or reach for him quickly. You should build a relationship built on trust instead of fear.
9. Don't be the nag in the family. If you want to tell your dog "No" once should be sufficient. No, no, no, no is just redundant and unnecessary. Avoid being overly critical, and giving orders constantly. No need to yell.
10. Be consistent. If you thought it was funny when your dog chewed up the toilet paper roll today, it should be funny when he does it next week, when you come home from work in a bad mood. Don't confuse your dog.
11. Never exercise your dog right after eating.
12. Be patient with puppies, you were young once too.
13. Never involve a puppy under six months old in exercises requiring much strength or endurance.
14. When you are training your dog, take frequent breaks. For every 15 minutes of dog training, your dog should get a 5 minute break.
15. Don't allow strangers, or anyone outside of immediate family to give commands to your dog. As a general rule of thumb, don't allow strangers to pet your dog. Especially if it's that unruly neighbor kid whose parents haven't taught him how to be nice to dogs.
16. Never train your dog just to impress others. Usefulness and well being is the goal sought in all instruction of the dog. Acts that spring naturally from the dog's instincts are to be fostered.
17. Avoid unrealistic expectations when training your dog. Just like you, your dog is not perfect. It takes time to learn, and relapses do happen. Rather than thinking of training as a 8 week class, think of training as ongoing.
To conclude, always treat your dog with empathy and respect.
If you need to train your dog, look into positive dog training. No matter what approach you use to train your dog, there are certain ways a dog should NEVER be treated. Abusive treatment of dogs seems to occur more frequently with old fashioned training methods. That's why I've decided to create this list that specifically states how dogs should not be treated.
1. Never punish your dog when you are angry.
2. Never hit your dog, or whip him with the leash.
3. Never grab your dog from behind, or sneak up on him.
4. If your dog is not a fast learner, never assume your dog is stupid.
5. Never call your dog over to punish him, he may not want to come next time.
6. Never tease or trick your dog, treat your dog with respect.
7. Never step on your dogs paws, twist his ears, or hit him. If a dog trainer asks you to do this, find another dog trainer.
8. Never grab your dog roughly or reach for him quickly. You should build a relationship built on trust instead of fear.
9. Don't be the nag in the family. If you want to tell your dog "No" once should be sufficient. No, no, no, no is just redundant and unnecessary. Avoid being overly critical, and giving orders constantly. No need to yell.
10. Be consistent. If you thought it was funny when your dog chewed up the toilet paper roll today, it should be funny when he does it next week, when you come home from work in a bad mood. Don't confuse your dog.
11. Never exercise your dog right after eating.
12. Be patient with puppies, you were young once too.
13. Never involve a puppy under six months old in exercises requiring much strength or endurance.
14. When you are training your dog, take frequent breaks. For every 15 minutes of dog training, your dog should get a 5 minute break.
15. Don't allow strangers, or anyone outside of immediate family to give commands to your dog. As a general rule of thumb, don't allow strangers to pet your dog. Especially if it's that unruly neighbor kid whose parents haven't taught him how to be nice to dogs.
16. Never train your dog just to impress others. Usefulness and well being is the goal sought in all instruction of the dog. Acts that spring naturally from the dog's instincts are to be fostered.
17. Avoid unrealistic expectations when training your dog. Just like you, your dog is not perfect. It takes time to learn, and relapses do happen. Rather than thinking of training as a 8 week class, think of training as ongoing.
To conclude, always treat your dog with empathy and respect.
The truth about bones
There is a difference of opinion among canine experts as to whether bones should be given to a dog raw, cooked, hard, or soft, and even whether they should be given at all. On one point, however, there is total agreement, never give a dog splintering bones from chicken, pork, fowl, and rabbit, (although chicken bones that have been cooked in a pressure cooker until they are very soft can be quite nourishing and safe).
A marrow bone is the traditional symbol of a treat for a dog, and he obviously appreciates it. It may be too big and hard for small dogs. In fact, large breeds generally handle bones much better than small ones. Bones that are mostly cartilage, such as spinal and shoulder bones of veal, knuckle bones, and soft rib bones, are good chewing material that can be entirely consumed.
The real danger is intestinal compaction, especially in small dogs, if the masticated bone has not been mixed with other residue in the dog's stomach. A small amount should cause no trouble if it is given right after a meal. Chop and steak bones are more dangerous. Careful eaters simply clean off the meat and fat, but greedy gobblers run the risk of internal injury from jagged bone splinters. The same is true of a leg of lamb bone.
What is the best policy to follow with a dog of your own? A teething puppy between four and six months of age should always have a bone, real or imitation, to chew on. You might give an adult dog a suitable bone as on occasional treat - for example, once a week. It will give him enormous pleasure, will help to keep his teeth clean and free from tartar, and will occupy him for several hours.
A marrow bone is the traditional symbol of a treat for a dog, and he obviously appreciates it. It may be too big and hard for small dogs. In fact, large breeds generally handle bones much better than small ones. Bones that are mostly cartilage, such as spinal and shoulder bones of veal, knuckle bones, and soft rib bones, are good chewing material that can be entirely consumed.
The real danger is intestinal compaction, especially in small dogs, if the masticated bone has not been mixed with other residue in the dog's stomach. A small amount should cause no trouble if it is given right after a meal. Chop and steak bones are more dangerous. Careful eaters simply clean off the meat and fat, but greedy gobblers run the risk of internal injury from jagged bone splinters. The same is true of a leg of lamb bone.
What is the best policy to follow with a dog of your own? A teething puppy between four and six months of age should always have a bone, real or imitation, to chew on. You might give an adult dog a suitable bone as on occasional treat - for example, once a week. It will give him enormous pleasure, will help to keep his teeth clean and free from tartar, and will occupy him for several hours.
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